GE Spectra JBP78 Electric Kitchen Range Logo

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Posted on Feb 18, 2013
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Can't control temperature on heating element

Front right heating element can not be controlled. It's always on high even when set at low.

1 Answer

Richard Roth

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  • GE Master 9,472 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 18, 2013
Richard Roth
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Joined: Nov 14, 2010
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You will need to replace the surface element switch. Here is the part to order. Below is a video to show you how to replace the switch.

Testimonial: "Thanks so much! The folks at GE wanted to send a tech out for $79 service call. They also said that the whole top probably needed to be replaced. You saved me a ton of money!"

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 58 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2008

SOURCE: GE Spectra Profile - dual burner only has one temperature - HIGH!

you need a new switch that is in the control panel

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Anonymous

  • 1543 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 28, 2008

SOURCE: element replacement

Sorry, but that's a bad one. If you have a JBP78 as you posted under, the broil heat relay contacts arched and welded closed. = replace electronic range control. If you do not have that model, you may have a separate bake / broil switch, which is where that problem occurred and then that would be able to be replaced.

Anonymous

  • 1891 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 04, 2009

SOURCE: While cooking on the right front burner, it began

if the burner works on high ( burner is ok ) replace the sw on back panel it's the problem / this is not a uncommon problem .. ****

Testimonial: "Thanks for the help. After I posted my question, I spoke to the local Sears parts counter, and they share your opinion."

spankyII

  • 13 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2010

SOURCE: GE Elec Range - front left burner will not turn on

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Anonymous

  • 1430 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 27, 2010

SOURCE: GE Electric range coil burner does not work on low

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

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2005 Chevy Uplander Van. What to do when the heated seats in it stops working?

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Spanish Car company 'Seat', pronounced See-At.

Check Fuse 13 (Heated Seats)

https://fuse-box.info/chevrolet/chevrolet-uplander-2005-2008-fuses-and-relay

..
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My passenger side power seat, and seat heater stop working simultaneously on my Cadillac SRX 2011 model. The Passanger side air bag light also came on simultaneously. I checked the fuses and mini circuit...

Looking at a wiring diagram for the passenger seat an checking wiring colors mite help you figure it out . But then again maybe not . Electronic's involved here , Right door module .
Heated Seat Components
The heated seats consist of the following components:
• Left heated seat switch
• Right heated seat switch
• Memory seat module
• Left door module
• Right door module
• Left seat cushion heating element
• Left seat back heating element
• Left seat cushion temperature sensor
• Right seat cushion heating element
• Right seat back heating element
• Right seat cushion temperature sensor
Modes of Operation
The heated seat module (MSM) controls heated seat operation for both the driver and passenger seats. There are 2 modes of operation available for heated seats; both the seat cushion and seat back heat, or seat back only heat. When a heated seat temperature signal request is received, the MSM will activate both the seat cushion and seat back heating elements. When the heated seat BACK ONLY mode button is pressed once the MSM will deactivate the seat cushion heating element and leave the seat back heating element ON.

Heated Seat Switch/LED Indicators and System Operation
The left and right heated seats are controlled by separate heated seat switches located in the door panels. Ground is supplied to the heated seat switches through the switch low reference circuits from their respective door modules. The door modules also control the heated seat switch heat mode and temperature indicators. The memory seat module (MSM) controls the heated seat operation for both, the left and right heated seats.
The following describes the sequence of operation and how the MSM responds to each of the switch inputs.
• High Temperature--When the heated seat switch is pressed once, ground is applied through the switch contacts and the switch signal circuit to the door module indicating the high heat request. In response to this signal, the door module applies a low current voltage through the 3 temperature indicator control circuits illuminating all 3 LEDs indicating the high temperature mode. The module then sends a message via the GMLAN serial data line to the MSM indicating the heated seat request. The MSM then applies battery voltage through the heating element supply voltage circuit to the seat cushion and seat back heating elements. At the same time, it supplies a ground through the element low reference circuits to the seat heating elements.
• Medium Temperature--When the switch is pressed a second time, the MSM sets the temperature level to medium heat. The door module removes the voltage from the high temperature indicator leaving 2 LEDs illuminated indicating the medium temperature mode.
• Low Temperature--When the switch is pressed a third time, the MSM sets the temperature level to low heat. The door module removes the voltage from the medium temperature indicator leaving 1 LED illuminated indicating the low temperature mode.
• System OFF State--When the switch is pressed a fourth time, the MSM removes the battery voltage and grounds from the heating elements. The door module removes the voltage from the low temperature indicator, indicating the system OFF state.
• Back Only Mode-When the heated seat is ON and the BACK ONLY mode button is pressed, ground is applied through the switch contacts and the heated seat back only mode signal circuit to the door module. In response to this signal, the door module sends a GMLAN message to the MSM indicating the back only mode request. The MSM then opens the ground path to the seat cushion heater element, leaving the seat back heater active. The door module turns OFF the seat cushion/back mode indicator, then applies a low current voltage through the heated seat back only mode indicator control circuit illuminating the back only mode indicator.

Know how to test an what test is the key to finding the problem .Not guessing . The connector you found may or may not have anything to do with it . What color are the wires ? I have factory service repair manual . Does it have memory seats ?
The Memory Seat System consists of the following components:
• Memory seat module (MSM)
• Seat horizontal motor
• Seat front vertical motor
• Seat rear vertical motor
• Seat recline motor
• Lumbar horizontal motor
• Seat horizontal position sensor
• Seat front vertical position sensor
• Seat rear vertical position sensor
• Seat recline position sensor
• Lumbar horizontal positional sensor
• Seat adjuster switch
• Seat lumbar switch
• Memory seat switch
• PWR SEATS Circuit Breaker 30 A
• MEMORY RPA Fuse 7.5 A
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1answer

Kenmore oven does not heat evenly

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
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Selection Buttons on GE Cafe Dishwasher

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective YOU'LL need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.

Heating Element If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Heating Element Assembly If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Touchpad and Control Panel If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced.

Touchpad If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

Check Fault Codes If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the Error Codes guide on our website to determine which component has failed or is failing

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Oct 02, 2012 • Dishwashers
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Dryer runs hot on low heat setting

What kind of dryer do you have? Some dryers use a bimetal or snap-disc thermostat with a heating element under it to control temperature. the heating element is used for the low heat setting to make it turn off early since it will sense a temperature higher that what is actually there. If the heating element is bad then the thermosat will only operate at the high temperature. You should look at replacing that element.
4helpful
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Burner heating element stays on high-cannot

there is a thermostat element beside every burner
i think it need to be changed.
thank you
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2002 Grand Cherokee Heated Seats don't work

I will post it in 2 different posts because its too long DB

HEATED SEAT SYSTEM
Individually controlled driver and passenger side electrically heated front seats are available factoryinstalled optional equipment on this model, when it is also equipped with the power seat option. The heated seat system allows both the driver and the front seat passenger the option to select one of two seat heating ranges, Low or High, or to turn the individual seat heaters OFF using the heated seat switches located in the center lower bezel near the bottom of the instrument panel center stack. The heated seat switch circuit operates on ignition switched battery current supplied through a fuse in the junction block, only when the ignition switch is in the ON position.

The heated seat system consists of the following components
  • Heated seat elements
  • Heated seat sensors
  • Heated seat module (or memory heated seat module)
  • Heated seat switches.
The heated seat system also relies upon resources shared with other electronic modules in the vehicle over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus network. The PCI data bus network allows the sharing of sensor information. This helps to reduce wire harness complexity, internal controller hardware, and component sensor current loads. At the same time, this system provides increased reliability enhanced diagnostics, and allows the addition of many new feature capabilities. For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the PCI data bus network, the use of a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures are recommended.

The electronic modules that may affect heated seat system operation are as follows:
  • Body Control Module (BCM) - Refer to Body Control Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
  • Heated Seat Module (HSM) - Refer to Heated Seat Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
  • Memory Heated Seat Module (MHSM) - If the vehicle is equipped with the Memory System, refer to Memory Seat Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
Refer to Power Seats Premium I/III in the Contents of Wiring Diagrams for complete circuit diagrams. Following are general descriptions of the major components in the heated seat system.

The heated seat system will only operate when the ignition switch is in the ON position, and the surface temperature at the front seat heating element sensors is below the designed temperature set points of the system. The heated seat system will not operate in ambient temperatures greater than about 41 °C (105 °F) . The front seat heating elements and sensors are hard wired to the Heated Seat Module (HSM) or the Memory Heated Seat Module (MHSM).

The heated seat switches are hard wired to the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM monitors the heated seat switch inputs, then sends heated seat switch status messages to the HSM or MHSM over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The HSM or MHSM contains the control logic for the heated seat system. The HSM or MHSM responds to the heated seat switch status messages, ignition switch status messages, and the front seat heating element sensor inputs by controlling the output to the front seat heating elements through integral solid-state relays.

When a seat heater is turned ON, the sensor located on the seat cushion electric heater element provides the HSM or MHSM with an input indicating the surface temperature of the seat cushion. If the surface temperature input is below the temperature set point for the selected Low or High heated seat switch position, the HSM or MHSM energizes the integral solid-state relay, which supplies battery current to the heating elements in the seat cushion and back. When the sensor input indicates the correct temperature set point has been achieved, the HSM or MHSM de-energizes the solid-state relay. The HSM or MHSM will continue to cycle the solid-state relay as needed to maintain the temperature set point.

The HSM or MHSM and the seat heater elements operate on non-switched battery current supplied through the power seat circuit breaker in the junction block. However, the HSM or MHSM will automatically turn OFF the heating elements if it detects an open or short in the sensor circuit, a short or open in the heating element circuit causing an excessive current draw, or when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.

See the owner's manual in the vehicle glove box for more information on the features, use and operation of the heated seat system.

I WILL POST THE REST
1helpful
1answer

Burner temperature is always on high heat even at low setting

not related any further then sounds as if you have 2 burner switches gone bad,and actually the front right burner is controlled by a electronic control circuit board part retails for about $160-$200 part number 12002723, and left rear switch about $30 part number 74007841 . uint needs to be uninstalled from counter and parts changed by removing the bottom panel
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