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The term "o-ring" usually is in reference to some sort of rubber or neoprene ring that serves as a gasket or seal for something. Pistons do not have o-rings, but they do have piston rings. There are usually three or more rings on each piston. They are split rings of steel that are inserted into grooves of the outer circumference of the piston. They seal the piston to the cylinder walls and prevent the air/fuel mix from getting past the piston into the crankcase and prevents the crankcase oil from being sucked into the cylinders. With the pistons rings, the cylinders would not have sufficient compression to do their job effectively. Rings can and do break from time to time. This can cause degradation of performance or in the worst-case scenarios, serious cylinder damage.
Some reasons the driver/piston assembly won't retract fully: - damage to the o-ring (LB1003) around the piston - cylinder (BA0165) is scored badly - driver (EA0167) is bent, twisted or warped - o-ring (LB1023) around bottom of cylinder (in groves & covering small holes) is stretched out or out of place. - Seal (BC0492) at bottom of cylinder & under bumper is damaged or gone
It is possible to hone the cylinders and replace the rings to save the pump but don't remove too much metal as there are no oversized rings available for this type of piston/cylinder set. Also make sure to find out what caused the scoring in the first place and remedy that or you'll be replacing the cylinders and pistons next time.
if you have run the unit with no oil in the mix ie straight petrol
you will have damaged the piston / rings / bore - do a compression check - if its quite low
check - remove the muffler and check for score marks on piston and rings and bore
if so , the unit may not be worth repair , because compression will be lost past damaged rings
and with damage on piston more scoring / damage will occur
so answer to is there a quick fix - no especaily if what find when you look up the ex port at piston / rings/bore
Your engine has an issue, on the cylinder with the wet spark plug, that is resulting in motor oil getting into the combustion chamber. The two main causes are a broken piston ring or worn valve guides/damaged valve guide seal. The former is a bigger issue as the pistons have to be removed to replace piston rings, which is a major undertaking and often reguires engine removal. The valve issue is significantly easier, which can be cured by what is called a "top overhaul". However, even a top overhaul is beyond the scope of a casual DIY pundit.
The diagram below should work for you. Put the piston on TDC. the OHC cam gear will have a single mark or may have two marks, see below. Be certain the front side of the chain is taut when mounting the gear. The cam chain tensioner keeps the back side taut.
Rebuilding the engine is the only true cure. Be sure that the engine warms up without driving it. In other words, don't put any excessive load on the engine while it is cold. Once it warms up, the piston, rings, pins, etc. will expand from the heat. This is why you only hear slapping when the engine is cold.
Early model Saturns are known for problems with the piston rings.What you have is known as excessive combustion blow-by.The only cure is installing new piston rings.Replacing the engine is a cost effective solution.
Go straight to the carby turn the mixture screw all the way in then back it out 1&1/2 turns if this fails to cure the running rich & excessive fuel consumption then you need to be looking at doing a compression test if the compression proves to be low you will need to over haul the top end it may be that a light honeing of the cylinder & a new set of rings will remedy the problem worst case scenario rebore new piston & rings valve guides reseat valves.
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