My water heater don't heat the water

Check if the TP valve is running water, and replace TP valve. Check if there is water leak somewhere
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html
Replace both thermostats and both elements, and then keep temperature turned down.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
Add a comment and describe what you find.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Cheapest and most reliable solution: Install tank-type electric water heater from local box store for $250. Get store coupons, offer 10% off store price. Repairs are made same day with generic off-the-shelf parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-install-electric-water-heater.pdf

2) Install grundfo water pressure boosting pump.
http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_increase_water_pressure_in_your_home
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-solder-pipes.html

3) Remove areators and low flow shower heads, Maintain unit as shown in product manual: Delime tankless unit yearly, Clean water filter monthly.

4) Call city and report low pressure and report issue as fire hazard, move to different apartment. Call apartment complex and ask why they didn't read flow requirements for tankless before installing tankless.

5) Call Bosch 866-330-2729 and complain that nobody read the flow requirement or tested local water flow before installing tankless.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following link for 3-step testing water heater elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

2) You need $10-15 multimeter from local hardware

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The thermostat is there to protect the water heater. I don't think it can overheat and make the breaker trip. If you tried to reset the unit and it's still not working, you should send your Titan N180 back to the manufacturer to be repaired. The 10 year warranty if against leaks. You have 1 warranty in your Titan components.

Identification of product is needed, then add a comment for possible help.
You have tank-type gas water heater.
What did you do to set water heater in vacation mode?

Maybe you have power vent with remote:
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=EC73220D-709B-4723-BD9F-137AF5CE481B

Maybe you have the optional LCD display?
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Rheem-remote-display.jpg
Short version instructions:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Water-heater-remote.pdf
Instructions for this type of control appear in manual on page 20 thru 23
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=EC73220D-709B-4723-BD9F-137AF5CE481B
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=a92c7d0e-8a95-48ba-8810-cd714f33d47a

See other gas water heater controls:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

You have 2 problems with several possible causes:
You have 10-year-old electric water heater that was reinstalled after falling down, and doesn't heat the water.
And you have no hot or cold water pressure, and no pipes are leaking.

1) First problem is lack of water pressure throughout house.
Turn on outdoor spigot nearest to water meter.
This spigot will tell you if problem is inside the house or between the house and meter.
If spigot runs full force, then you probably have clogged pipe where water heater connects to main cold line, or the main shut off valve got clogged with sediment that broke off inside the pipe when you were working on water heater.
Open and close shut off valve to see if that helps. Then disassemble pipes and track back the problem. Put pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to watch pressure drop when turning on indoor faucet.
Read following information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Water heater doesn't work:
Test across wires at top of heater to see if you are getting correct voltage:
If tank is receiving correct voltage, then no hot water puts suspicion on upper element or upper thermostat, or both.
Open following link for electric water heater troubleshoot steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

You posted under water heater.
Open following link for adjusting water heater temperature on typical gas and electric water heaters:
State electric has ABC
White Rodgers gas thermostat has ABC
Honeywell gas valve has ABC
Each is shown on following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

60 degrees C is 140 degrees F.
You can get burned pretty quick at 140 F.
I suggest 125-130 F and see if that works
First aid for burns is to apply cool water immediately.

If there is enough water around element and lower thermostat, it's going to blow the breaker. If you don't have leaks at the pipes above, it's probably time to replace the heater. If the leak can be found and repaired, there may be hope for the heater but, if it is leaking past thermostat, you probably have a crack in the threads. Make sure, if your going to work with the wiring of the unit, that it is turned off and, if it is on, make sure you're careful and not standing in water. You could quite possibly have a cracke or broken tank.

If it's a new install: the water is going backwards through the heater and you need to check that your cold water IN is actually hooked up to the cold water IN spot on the heater. they don't register flow if the flow goes backwards through the heater.
If it's not a new install: something is stuck in your flow sensor, drain the unit and take it out to check.

is you unit a heat pump if so it may have tripped off on high head pressure . check your filter and if its dirty replace it then go up on the roof and look for a red button and if it has it press it and the unit should come back on.