GE Profile modelJGS968SOH366 power boil low flame

SOURCE: Gas Burners Not Lit Completely

sounds like there isnt the right amount of gas coming out of the orifice. orifice could be partially plugged

SOURCE: cleaning and care for my GE Profile stovetop

The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.

FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.

Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?

SOURCE: yellow flame blackening pots and oven

Are you on LP/Propane gas or Natural gas?
Was the range set up by a technician?

SOURCE: The burners are too hot. Even when set to 'lo'

Your range uses what is commonly refered to as infinite heat switches. Without getting into too much of the mechanics of how they opperate, basically they cycle the burner on (at full power) for a very short time at warm or lower settings,(and longer off periods), at medium type settings, on / off might be more like 50 /50, and at high, they are on 100% of the time. There is no calibration for these. Sometimes, the electrical contacts inside arch and make poor contact, or weld themselves together, giving high heat at all settings. The only way to fix this problem is to replace the individual switches, which are the part the the knobs push onto.

SOURCE: ge profile gas range. one burner with no clicking and no ignition

Try one to light one of the other burners that work and watch the electrode on the burner that does not light and see if you have spark when you here the clicking nois. (( most gas cooktop spark ignitor all spark at the same time, even if your only trying to light one burner ))

If you do have spark, Then the Ignitor switch is bad.

If you don't have spark then your spark modual is bad.