Furnace runs but won't ignite.

Sequence of events: call for heat at T-stat, inducer motor turns on, negative pressure created in heat exchanger closes pressure switch, pressure switch control wire runs through all safety's (these must all be in closed/safe position) if ok then glow plug lights. Time delay then gas valve opens, flame verified by "flame rod" t-stat = :)

33 is a limit switch open take your furnace doors off and there should be a wiring diagram. on this furnace the blower will run if this is open. check rool out swict and linits. it sounds like you have a problem with over heating. how does the fire look ? is the vent blocked ? things like thathttp://www.scribd.com/doc/20861415/Carrier-58pav-Service-Maint i think page 9 has falt codes

This is actually the wrong place foe this however there is an overload on the circuit which may be caused by a faulty ground on the circuit.

This is the roll out switch located on the burner. Its a small disk with 2 wires and a small button in the middle. Depress this button to reset.

It means that the furnace isn't igniting and for safety the control board is preventing the gas valve from opening. Turn off the power to the furnace for a few seconds then observe what the furnace does in heat mode. Some furnaces will run the blower for a minute after you power it back up. After that see if the furnace tries to come on. If you are still getting the code then one of you high temp limit or roll out switches has tripped. Now is the time for a service tech. Make sure that you check you filter and air flow too. Low air flow means the furnace may be over heating.
The other thing is the hot surface igniter. Look closely at it with the power off. Do you see a white spot on the element or a crack. If so the HSI is bad. It's an easy replacement but DO NOT touch the carbon element with your fingers and be very careful handling it as it is EXTREMELY fragile.

First of all when you flip the switch, it goes thru a startup sequence. THEN it turns on the Igniter (notice the red glow). Then the gas turns on.

Now at this point check the idiot light and it should be giving you a code of 34. That 34 (3 shorts 4 longs) says that there was a problem igniting the furnace. After it cycles thru at least 4 times and fails to ignite all the blowers, then is when you get a code 14 (1 short 3 longs)

NOTICE what's happening with ALL the burner Tubes each time it attempts to ignite. If only one or two are running....then this is your problem.
To fix all you do is take out the burner Tubes, look for debris, blow them out (blow from the front where all the jets are), and replace them in sequence from left to right (the tabs overlap).

Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.

A code 12 is "Blower on after power-up" Try resetting the furnace with either the Emergency switch or circuit breaker. If it continues, you may need a new control board.

Your hot surface igniter may be bad. It may be cracked which would prevent it from starting the burner flame.

. Several times of recyling power normally brings the furnance up. Though the failure code has always been 31, there are several different behaviour when the blower starts after reset :
a. blower simply creases.
b. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), then everything stops.
c. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), once I see the orange glow from the coil, normally the gas is lit up and the unit starts working.