I want to wire a 4 plate eletric stove put my wiring system is this white tick wire I believe it's only a two wire.

I can provide you with some general instructions on how to wire a 4 burner stove.
First, ensure that the stove is disconnected from any power source.
Identify the four burners and their respective control knobs. Each burner should have a set of wires connected to it.
Remove the control panel cover by unscrewing any screws or bolts that hold it in place.
Identify the wiring connections for each burner. The wiring should be color-coded, with one wire usually being black and the other white or red.
Disconnect the old wiring connections by unscrewing any screws that hold them in place. Be sure to keep track of which wires go where.
Connect the new wiring to the burner by attaching the black wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L1" and the white or red wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L2."
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each burner.
Replace the control panel cover and secure it with any screws or bolts.
Reconnect the stove to the power source and test each burner to ensure that it is working properly.
It's important to note that these are general instructions, and the specific wiring diagram for your GE 4 burner stove may vary depending on the model and year. If you're unsure about the wiring or feel uncomfortable working with electricity, it's always best to consult a professional electrician or appliance repair technician.

Okay so black and red are the L1 and L2 white is "N" neutral and green is ground, to the body / chassy that's it.

The white one may just form an earth loop,, I recently had a ceramic plate needing cleaned so we did the whole lot, I think most hobs have 4 wires and they are numbered rather than colour coded..hope this helps

Hi Gary The hob connectors have colour coded plug ins. They are starting from right to left the red connector is for the front right plate, the white is for the back right plate, the blue is for the the back left plate and the black is for the front left plate. Now I am not sure of the config in your country but another way to look at this is that The red dot 2000 W (large plate) is connected to the black harness and the red dot 1500 W is connected to the blue harness. The std large plate 1500 W is connected to the white harness and the red harness is for the 1000W small plate. The wiring onto the actual plates should be accrording to the colour codes as follows: The harnesses are all 4 wires and are colour coded blue white ( wiring block 1) , yellow white(block 2), white ( wiring block 3) and the red white block 4. The actual plates are numbered from left to right as 1,2,4,3. But my wiring write up takes it as standard 1 to 4 so do mot worry about the numbers on the plates as some plates have no numbers. Hope this helps.

I can only speak for the 720. If you want a circuit/wiring diagram for this one, then I need an email address. I will then register this on my BT Digital Vault and you can the download the whole manual.
Looking at the diagrams, the neon for the main oven has white and black wires.
The white wire from the main oven neon goes onto the same connector on the thermostat block as the white wire to the oven element. The black wire from the neon goes to a common terminal on the top oven neon, which then goes onto P6 of the top oven switch (still black wire).
If you need any more info, then let me know.

Since 1996, the NEC has required that all stoves and dryers be wired with a 4 wire configuration; 2 hot wires (red/black - supplies 240 volts), the bare green ground wire and a white neutral wire. Before you do anything, review this article which speaks to the 3-wire/4-wire arrangement. Good luck!

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/appliances/range1/cord/4_wire.htm

most stoves require a 4 wire plug..red, black, white and ground..the white is needed for the 110V to work properly..ground is there for safety incase something shorts out it will blow a fuse/trip circuit breaker

if its 240volt and you have a 3 wire receptacle, (crows foot) and the new stove has 4 wires:i.e. a RED-BLACK-WHITE-GREEN on the oven unit, your red/black are your 2 hot wires white goes to neutral, and Green is safety ground put the WHITE and GREEN together, as long as the receptacle comes DIRECTLY from the Main Panel in the House, they use a 4 wire systen in some locations depending on local codes/any new installs require a 4 wire plug install now per the N.E.C.

In a normal house, black and red are the hot wires and are wired to a circuit breaker or fuse at the panel box. White goes to the ground bar. Sometimes the white(neutral) is seperated from the ground. Sometimes they can be connected together. At the fuse box they both go to the silver ground bar. If you are attaching a cord and plug purchase one to match the outlet you have. Usually at the terminal block the hot wires are on the outside. Neutral in the middle. At the terminal block there is a metal strap or wire going from the center terminal to the frame of the stove. If the cord you have is just 3 wires leave it. If the cord you have uses 4 wires remove the strap and connect it seperately to the green or ground wire on the cord.

To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers.
The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up...
because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral -
which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up....
which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
Krazytech