After getting fault 245 I opened the pump and cleaned out a mass of heavy fluff from a pillow that had broken, plus a coin and rubbish. But then I got a fault 49 (and just once I saw a fault 27). I measured water valves resistance and all were 64 Ohms, I pulled out the control board and noticed that the 1.6A fast blow fuse had blown. I assumed that had been caused by the pump jamming and went ahead and resoldered a new fuse. Put everything together and turned on the power and the fuse blew again. I measured the resistance of the pump wires R-B, B-W, R-W - all were 16 Ohms (I think this normal). So now HELP! I have not found any further info about what it might be. Need to decide if it is worth paying for an expensive service call.
Error code 245 is pump stall.
If the 1.6amp glass fuse has blown, the five mosfets on right side have shorted out there legs & blown the fuse.
Also check the pump drive parts for shorted legs.
There are three resistor that burn out near the fuse.
I will up loaded some pictures later.
Error code 27 is fabric Softener valve fault,Check the 5 mosfet's & parts on the side some are shorted out.
Can I check if the resistors have actually burnt out? If they have or the MOSFETs have gone I assume I nee a new control board!?
I have seen this in AquaSmart boards alot, When the pump has a problem it takes out other parts on the board. Is your line voltage 220volt ac you can Find a board on Ebay. you will need the first 6 digit part number on the yellow label.
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SOURCE: My fuse from the controller keep getting blown out.
With all due respect, there is some rather incorrect information in your response Jidza.
These washers are direct-drive and do not have any transmission, nor does the motor "spin backwards during extract". I think you are confusing a Fisher Paykel machine with conventional motor-driven washers. The "motor" is not a self-contained unit, it is really a "drive unit" consisting of a stationary stator/RPS sensor and rotor that either spins in a circular motion to drive the basket for the extract cycle, or it will "pulsate" to mimick the action of a transmission for the agitate cycle. There is no belt or gears or any of that. It's a brilliant design that eliminates many of the moving parts on the typical American washing machine.
With that said, in regards to the original post, the diverter valve, water pump and water inlet valves all are possibilities for a popped fuse in the controller, as well as a fault in the circuitry in the controller itself. Visual inspection of the pump or a simple continuity test is not enough. You need to check the specific resistance of the coil for the water pump, as it can be out of spec and cause the control to fail.
Some of the other experts do not approve when some of us suggest that obtaining a service manual would be the best cause of action but in this case it is warranted. These machines are not like "conventional" washers, they are, for the most part, electronic in nature and proper understanding of the circuits involved in the various cycles and functions makes servicing them much easier and your chances of sucess in repairing them much greater. You can obtain a detailed service manual for the GWL11 here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/category.php?category_id=53
My answer is not intended to insult anyone, I'm trying to help the original poster.
SOURCE: fisher & paykel washing machine (gw603-u) emptys while filling
Hi just read your posting.Now where is you machine draining to?Is it draining into the laundry sink or somewhere else?If it is draining into the laundry sink and not into a grey water hose then I am afraid it must be the green motor controller.This controller has the pressure switch as part of the circuit board.I think though it must be the fet that controls the power to your pump might be faulty.Are you in Australia as there are company's that will test your motor controller if you send it to them.Please reply with additional information and I can help you further.
SOURCE: I put a small Carpet piece in my Fisher and Paykel
could b faulty control module. when pump jams or seizes on these machines it usually causes a fault in control module.whenever i found a control module faulty i always checked the pump for cause of fault.
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel intuitive eco - I have too many suds -tried all
This may sound silly but have you checked your washing powder? Here in Australia (not sure where you are) most detergent manufactures are concentrating their powdered detergents but haven't made much fuss on the packaging - just giving you smaller scoops.
I hope for your sake it is something as simple as that.
SOURCE: I have a 609 Intuitive
i just love these machines they are not the best but there great when they work correctly. ok yes the most common problem with the f/p washers is they blow there power control boards the reason why is this there is no power short protection in the pcb have you ever unplugged the washer lifted the lid and turned by hand the barrel and seen that the lights on the control light up it allows the capstan drive motor to reverse its poer back to the board when the washer spins too fast it imt/s too much power back to the pcb. your completly ok to fit the control board it wont burn out 32 ohms on the pump is great give it a little spray of wd-40 anti corosive oil spray now the impulse reader on the side of the barrel small circuit board that must be clean and free of water marks and dust rust e.t.c then the drive break will respond faster stopping pcb burn out do this every 6 months
merry christmas
sonic boom electronics australia
please take the time to rank this advice
thanks
Testimonial: "Impressed with the fast response. Will take the advice given. Many thanks."
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