LOUD BANGING WHEN ON FULL SPIN

Ive checked thru the top and back cant notice anythin brohen but when i do spin tbe tub the banging noice is coming from in tbe drum and its pretty wobbley

It sounds like the tub seal is leaking, allowing water to leak out of the tub and damage the drum bearing. Unfortunately you need specialized tools to replace the seal and bearing, so you may have to get a maytag service agent in to look at it. If you're handy with a welder you may be able to make up a tool yourself, it basically consists of a flat hexagon with tabs on the inside to fit the drum nut, and some handles on it. You'll need to remove the front panel and top panel. Then remove the cap around the top of the tub. The agitator is held on by a small screw near the base of the agitator, loosening it will allow you to remove it. Now you can see the tub nut, this is reverse threaded, so it's loosened clockwise. Then you can lift out the drum. Next on the shaft is the top part of the mechanical seal. Remove the grub screw out the side. Now you'll need the same tool you used for the tub nut to undo the seal, rotating in the same direction. Remove the outer tub by undoing the 3 bolts that fix it to the stays, and disconnect the level tube and drain hose. From here you should have printed instructions that come with the new parts to replace the seal and bearing. Please feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

Yes, Undo the 32mm nut, first. And, don't get the bearings dirty with dust from the brake drums, or , if you do, replace the inner and outer bearings with new greased up ones. REAR DRUM BRAKES Brake Drums REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
Brake linings contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum contains asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum.

1. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. On vehicles without rear bearing hub, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, wheel bearing nut and washer from the spindle. Remove the outer wheel bearing. Remove the drum with the inner wheel bearing from the spindle. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. Remove the grease seal.
4. If equipped with a rear bearing hub, remove the drum by removing the retainer screws from the drum and pulling the drum from the hub assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. To install:
   
5. On vehicles equipped without rear bearing hub, lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing. Install a new grease seal. Install the drum to the spindle. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust the bearing preload following the procedure outlined in the "Rear Wheel Bearing'' of this section. When the bearing preload is properly set, install the nut lock and a new cotter pin. Install the grease cap.
6. On vehicles with rear bearing hub, install the brake drum to the hub assembly and install the retaining screws.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Adjust the rear brakes as required.
8. Apply the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained, prior to moving the vehicle.

one of two possibilities here ,either you have a coin in the drum that has got in through small gap at the front ,of the bearing has gone and the drum has dropped catching on the outer drum.to find out and hopefully remove a coin you will have take the back off the machine ,then remove the belt ,and on the back of the drum is a big clamp ,undo this clamp and remove the drum .but some machines have the clamp at the front ,If this is the case then you will need to undo the drive pulley at the back ,remove the pulley and screw the nut back on flush with end of the thread use a wooden block and tap the shaft to push it through the bearing.No quick solution here just donkey work iam afraid.

mostly the motor problem  and other possible problem can be  that a bearing is bad.If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.

Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

It may be something that was in the wash and fell thru the holes in the inner drum. Check all the plastic agitators and make sure they are all secure and an attach bolt has not backed out of one and rubbing the outer tub. It will wear a hole in it fast if it is.
Usually when the bearings go bad, it gets very loud on the spin cycle, like a loud roar and sometimes clothes will have rust or grease stains on them.
I just replaced my tub bearings on my Frigidare and spent about $60. They are all pretty much the same. On mine they only list the complete rear outer tub assembly with bearings, but you can knock the old bearings and seal out and match them up at a bearing supply house or you can buy online. Online seems much cheaper. If you buy bearings, make sure you get ones with a -2rs on the end of the part number. ex. 6308-2rs. They are sealed and hold up much better in water environment.
I would give it a try, the junk man doesn't care if it comes in pieces or one big piece.

There are a couple online articles that can probably help you. Do a google search for 'washer rear tub bearings"

u need to put something like a wooden hammer handle into the hole in the spider at the back when u have put it in spin the inner drum clock wise fast so it undos the spider or pulley wheel to some people once the spider is all the way off u need to put the nut back on just so it is level with the spindle with a rubber mallet strike it fast and hard and it will move the inner drum to come out once it comes so far out u need to undo the nut and remove the inner drum totally

these washers are a swine to dis-assemble and i would not recommend it unless you are experienced. on most indesit, the bearings are in a spider bolted to the outside of the tub. take the back off and see if you can localise the noise to the bearings worthwhile also taking the heater out (one nut in the middle), peer in and check no foreign object causing the noise