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My fredge is not working neither on a/c or LPG. No leak is present . I think is the circuit board in the back part.
No flame is present when change to LPG.
Fredge was working on a/c and apparently a power failure occurs and not work after that.
I try to verify the circuits in the circuit board but there are sealed . fuse are ok.
any idea?
Mike
Refrigerator Model no: RM 2652 Refrigerator prod. no: 921144002
my model is the 2652 also,we haven't used it in two years,went out to turn on and no panel lights,fuses were ok,no juice to 12 volt side of fuse,ac fuse is ok,my furnace also quit the same time,this is bad,right? i have battery power to the circuit board,but not the 12 volt fuse, i checked the ac fuse and it's fine but wont work on either one,need help,thanks jc brady.
My fridge light on front comes on to show that it is on auto but the fridge will not get cold at all the burner on the outside is coming on just fine and checked the fuses there is gas and electric going to it fine but not getting cool
My fridge light on front comes on to show that it is on auto but
the fridge will not get cold at all the burner on the outside is coming
on just fine and checked the fuses there is gas and electric going to
it fine but not getting cool
I have the same situation as gojoe21 Unit was working well and then stopped getting cold. I unplugged the unit and can hear the gas kick in, but it still is not getting cold. All fuses look good.I have the same situation as gojoe21 Unit was working well and then stopped getting cold. I unplugged the unit and can hear the gas kick in, but it still is not getting cold. All fuses look good.
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You need to check your fuses on the fuse panel inside your coach. The frig will not operate on gas or electric without 12 volt power to the frig circuit board.
Between 1993-1996 dometic used a yellow epoxy filled circuit board that went bad pretty quickly if you have the yellow filled circuit board rather than the green one it is most likely the circuit board
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Unplug hydro plug to fridge. Remove cover on circuit board. Follow wires from heating element, to terminals on circuit board. ( probably J7 and J8 ) . With an AC volt meter or multimeter set to AC voltage, turn fridge on hydro, and leave door open on fridge so that it calls for cooling. To be sure it's calling for cool, try gas first, when it's starts, you know it's calling for cool, then switch to AC operation. Now test for voltage at the 2 terminals that the heating element were/are attached to. If you get 100-120 VAC, then replace the heating element. If not get back to me and I'll walk you through a couple more tests.
SOLENOID VALVE
Check the solenoid coil with a properly calibrated ohm meter. Remove the connector from the solenoid
and measure the resistance across the terminals. The proper reading would be 49 ohms with tolerance
range of ten percent. . .
Next, hook up a manometer at the test port. Then check for DC volts at gas valve terminals while the
unit is in trial-for-ianition. If DC volts are present and pressure is low, replace the valve. If DC volts are
not present at the valve while the unit is in trial-for-ianition, verify that the wire at Plug 3, Terminal 2 on
lower circuit board have DC volts v (9V or more)
IGNITER
First verify proper voltage at the positive (+) and ground (-) terminals of
the ignitor. The reading should be within one volt of incoming voltage at
the main terminal block during trial-for-inanition
Next, remove high voltage cable from igniter. The igniter should produce
a sparking sound, during trial-for-inanition. If not, replace the
igniter.
The igniter installed on the refrigerators as original equipment is part
number 2931132019 (RV Gas Model 679). This igniter is rated 50 MA.
This igniter may also be used on any other model
Hope this helped
Appliance Wiz
Inanition: Proofing for ignition
Dometic refrigerator lp gas electronic Model # 3662. Same problem. gas works fine and power is there. as lights on top of frig work.... not even trying to be cold. Same suggestions as 2652? How to bypass thermostat? and will try relay after... thanks.. Bob in Canada<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden" /><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden" /><!-- from fixya rte -->
If you have the yellow epoxy filled circuit board from around 1993-1996 rather than the green newer one you can see the circuits on (take the black cover at back of fridge off to check) it is most likely just a bad circuit board. Otherwise it is most likely low voltage or a bad ground on the 12volt power coming into the fridge. Also make sure your thermostat(if available) is on maximum during testing.
Between 1993-1996 dometic used a yellow epoxy filled circuit board that went bad pretty quickly if you have the yellow filled circuit board rather than the green one it is most likely the circuit board
My fridge light on front comes on to show that it is on auto but
the fridge will not get cold at all the burner on the outside is coming
on just fine and checked the fuses there is gas and electric going to
it fine but not getting cool
I have the same situation as gojoe21 Unit was working well and then stopped getting cold. I unplugged the unit and can hear the gas kick in, but it still is not getting cold. All fuses look good.
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