I have a whirlpool GHW9100lw1 and have replaced the pulley 3 times because it wears out and starts to wobble it has know worn down the shaft it fits on and I need to replace the shaft. Can I just purchase the shaft or do I need to replace the entire basket?

I am wondering if your pulley is bent. It will wobble if it is. Is it possible a piece of ice got jammed into it. Is the auger shaft bent? There has to be a reason it wobbles. It will eventually wear something out if not repaired.

THe two flats are on the shaft? If so, these flats are for set screws that lock the pulley on the shaft. Im lost on the ' two flats' part.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you

Drive Belt

If the dryer makes noise, the belt may be frayed or damaged. If the belt is damaged, it will make noise every time it travels around the pulleys. The drive belt is a long, narrow band that wraps around the entire drum, then around a tension pulley and the motor pulley.


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Drum Roller

It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers. If one is worn out replace all of them at the same time as a preventative measure.

Drum Roller Axle

Over time the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to wobble. If this happens the dryer makes noise. If the dryer is making a rumbling noise, check the rollers and axles. If any are worn out, replace them all at the same time.

Blower Wheel

Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel.

Drum Bearing

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process.

Drum Support Roller & Axle

It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers or axles may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers and axles. If one is worn out replace all of them at the same time as a preventative measure.

Drum Support Bearing

The drum support bearing is at the rear of the drum. If the dryer makes noise check this bearing. If it is worn out, replace the entire bearing.

Drum Slide, Glide, or Pad

The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out.

Drive Motor

Although not very common, if the dryer makes noise the drive motor may be worn out and the motor bearings can become noisy. If this happens the drive motor must be replaced. The bearings are permanently sealed and cannot be lubricated.

Hi idosmiles06...

The noise you are hearing is one of three things...depending on your dryer.
1...Front felt drum seal needs replacing...rubbing metal to metal
2...Drum rollers are worn and needs replacing
3...Drum bearing is worn and needs lube or replacement...if your is the kind of dryer that has the center support bearing.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like the drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if you have to.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer by removing two screws located on either side of the top of the dryer housing and unplug the door switch.
This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots or wear they will make a thumping type of noise.
If your drum rollers have too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them and are only squeeling then they probably only need lubrication.
Remove the rollers and clean the shafts that the roller rolls on, remove any hair,dust,etc from roller and shaft.
Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil, or a light lubricant like Vaseline.
Reassemble the dryer.
Plug back into your electrical receptical.
This should solve your noise problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

The first thing to determine is if the pulley is loose due to wear on the pulley or if the spin bearing in the outer tub is bad.

Remove the belt. Make sure the nut holding the pulley in place is tight.
Wiggle the pulley while shining a bright lamp on it.. is it loose on the shaft or is the shaft moving.
If the shaft is moving.. outer tub needs to be replaced.. and in some cases this means the spin basket as well.

If you remove the pulley..and the inside mating surfaces which are flat on two sides are worn or rounded off.. bad pulley.. the retaining nut may not have been tightened properly.. or it became loose up over time,

However the black dust means the belt has been slipping ..some dust is probably normal due to age.. rubber breaks down..but a lot of dust means friction.. which means something is not turning as freely as it should.

So it has to be a loose retaining nut, worn pulley..or worn failing outer tub bearing.. I am afraid it's more than likely the last one.

Sears Parts Direct will have diagrams for your model..

Best of luck

Hi There
Here some stuff for you to read and hope this will help you.Let me know how it works out.
It doesn't agitate
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
Thank you for writing to fix ya.
Best Regards Richard

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

• Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.



• The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

It's noisy Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.

it could be a worn motor bearing, but they usually last for 20 years, i would guess that you have a worn drum roller, the thing that holds up the drum and looks like a wheel.
if your sure the motor has a worn bearing then replacing the motor is not easy as you have to unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft.
it also may be that you are talking about the idler pulley being worn. it is the device that holds tension against the belt and they also will wear out and be "wobbly"

You can fix this yourself if you haven,t used it long like this. THis is caused by the rollers that support the back of the drum coming wearing out in the middle. this causes them to wobble and drop down. Then the rear top of the drum rides on the metal back which well eventually wear a hole in it.
UNPLUG THE DRYER
1 Take out the lint filter on top and remove the 2 screws there.
2. Use a thin bladeed screwdriver or butter knife to push in the crack right under front top. THere is a clip on each side that has to be pushed in to be able to lift up the top
3. disconnect the wires to the door switch. 2 wires if no drum light 3 if there is a light. If only 2 wires it doesn't matter where they go. If more mark them so you get them back right.

Most gas dryers have a separate bottom panel that just swings down from the top. You may need to pry with a screw driver. Remove this first.

Electric dryers and some newer gas dryers have a solid front panel.

When you lift the top of the dryer prop it up and out of the way. There will be a screw on each side holding the front panel on. It takes a 1/4 inch socket to remove. A solid panel dryer will have clips holding the bottom on. Just pull the top out and away from the drum and lift up. It should come free. If there is a separate bottom panel, loosen but dont remove the screws. This will let you remove the front panel. The drum will drop down. and act like it will fall out, the belt will hold it.
Look under the dryer and pay close attention to how the belt is run. THere is a springy idler pulley It is just held by aslot in the bottom. It will probably fall out when the belt is gone. Pull it back and release the belt. Take out the drum. There will be at least 2 roller wheels supporting the drum in back. These need to be replaced. Possibly the shaft as well. Most of the time just the rollers are worn out in the middle and wobble on the shaft. I always replace the rollers, the belt and the idle pulley. Check the felt seal on the back side of the drum If its damaged replace it. Check the nylon strip that the front rides on. again replace it if needed. Most of the time you just need , belt, rollers and idle pulley They shouldn't cost more than $20 - $35 for all. The main reason for a new belt is that the new belt has a diagram of how to install it. First time is rough. THis shouldn't take more than an hour to do and you really can do it yourself. If you get stuck look in the library for a book with pictures. Most Whirlpool, Kenmore and Roper dryers are all the same. The rollers, and pulley are generic to almost all models. There are only about 3 - 5 different belts

I had the same problem and being a procrastinator, I waited until the belt came off before launching a full scale investigation into the knocking noise it had been making for about a year. Here is what I found and below that is my no guarantees fix.....
I removed the nut and pulled the tub pulley off. I noticed the tub shaft has a "shoulder bolt" and the pulley could not be tightened onto the shoulder bolt with enough squeeze to keep the tub pulley from wobbling. Tolerance issue... maybe? I decided to measure the keyed tub shaft with calipers and found the thickest part of the shaft to be 1" ish. The Shaft is part of the tub bearing assembly (from my observation) and the tub shaft is part of the tub bearing which measured 1 1/4" diameter. I found a washer that was 1" inside diameter and 1 1/4" outside diameter and placed it over the tub shaft behind the tub pulley. I tightened the nut snugly and reinstalled the belt. Ahhhhh, quiet operation and no more wobble. I will let you know if it causes another problem but from what I can tell.... replacing the tub pulley with another of the same dimensions will not work.

you don't need a very thick washer(my washer is too thick (.1"ish) so I will replace it soon(yeah right) with 1/32" or maybe 1/16"...I used rubber but I think steel or brass or what ever would probably work too.

Purists will tell you that the lock nut should be replaced, or if you don't use the permanent thread locker you could use loctite.

Hope that helps.