Pro 750 hinge pin came out of position. Pin is intact but I can't get it back into position so the cover plate will fully close down

https://raybuck.com/replace-chevy-gm-truck-door-hinge-pins-bushings/

Remove the door spring, old hinge pins and bushings:
1.Remove the retainer clip on the top of the top hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
2.Remove the door spring behind the hinge - between the hinge and the door itself - by locating the end of the spring and inserting the screwdriver between it and the hinge. Pry, using the door as leverage, until the spring pops out.
3.Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pins, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
4.Place your long extension on the top of the pin and carefully hammer down to dislodge the pin, taking care not to hit your windshield or another part of your vehicle.
Now, it's time to grab your assistant!
5.Remove the retainer clip on the bottom of the bottom hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
6.Place your jack to hold up the end of the door to support the weight when the bottom pin comes out. Have your assistant hold the door so that it stays on the jack and doesn't fall. Pro tip: You can use a 2 x 4 piece of wood to better distribute the door's weight.
7.Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pin, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
8.Carefully hammer up from the bottom to dislodge the pin, making sure your helper is holding the door firmly on the jack to support the weight. You may need to have your assistant gently wiggle the door if the pin is binding on the hinge. You can also grip the top of the pin with pliers once you start to work it loose and tap on your pliers with the hammer to fully dislodge and remove the pin. Pro tip: You can use a rag to protect the paint on your door by covering the area with it before hammering upward on the pin.
9.Use your flathead screwdriver to pry the old bushings out.
Now replace the old hinge pins and bushings and put the door back together:
10.Insert the new bushings, taking care to respect the different sizes and where they are located on each hinge. Pro tip: For the top hinge, the larger bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the top part of the hinge. For the bottom hinge, the larger bushing goes in the top part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge. In both cases, the head of the hinge bolt goes at the larger of the two bushings.
11.Gently hammer the four bushings into place. Remember that the bushings go in the vehicle part of the hinge, not the door part.
12.With the weight of your door still on the jack, work with your assistant to align the hinges and start to slide the hinge pins into place through the bushings - bottom first, then top. Use a hammer to gently tap at first, then hammer more firmly at the end to fully engage the pins in the new bushings.
13.Place your new retainer clips over the bushings and use your small socket or a small hollow piece of tube to hammer the retainer rings in place, ensuring they are fully seated to keep the pins from coming out.
Reinstalling the door spring with or without a GM door spring tool:
14.If you have the specific GM door spring tool (spring compressor) for replacing the door springs, follow the instructions included with the tool.ORIf you DON'T have the GM spring tool, you can compress the spring in a vice and use plastic zip-ties to keep it compressed while you install it.
Pro tip: Install your three zip-ties loosely before you compress the spring and tighten them once you have the spring in the vice.
Carefully hold the spring by the side, not the ends, in case the zip-ties break. Make sure you wear eye protection as you push the compressed spring into place.Carefully cut two of the zip-ties. It can help to close the door slightly as you do this and also rotate the compressed spring to access the second zip-tie. It is difficult to cut the third zip-tie, but it will quickly break on its own as you open and close the door, popping the spring into place.

The foot control function for a motor run condition is variable from 4k ohms to 0 ohms with full depression of the foot control top plate. Heeling back on this control makes a 10k ohms signal for needle down function.
To remove the top cover, peel back the vinyl top covering to expose a single hole above each of the two plastic axle or hinge pins located on each side of the top cover. Insert a pin punch (or other tool)
appropriate in size through the hole, placing the pin end against the hinge pin and pry/pop out the hinge pin. Pull out the hinge pins and remove the cover. Reverse the process to assemble the cover. To insert the barbed vinyl projections on the bottom side of the vinyl top covering, moisten the projections with a little KY jelly and reinsert into the holes in the top plate.
http://www.sewtechnical.com/

You'll need a punch tool that has a diameter slightly smaller that the pin itself. Take a hammer and use it to drive the hinge pin out.

did you turn your mixer over and unscrew the set screw on the hinge shaft before trying to put back in? there is a small set screw that holds the hinge pin in place during normal operation. the screw sometimes comes loose and the shaft will vibrate out of it's normal operating position but when you try to push it back in the screw now stops the hinge shaft from going in, You have to turn the mixer upside down and look into the base cavity and you will see the set screw in the middle. Loosen first, return hinge shaft to normal operating position and the re tighten the setscrews, you can be firm with this screw, let us know if this helped

Tool Needed, flat head screwdriver (larger one works a little better). Serious Safety Precaution: Make sure unit is unplugged. Preliminary: Check: that nothing is caught like threads etc, preventing roller brush from turning. I've had this model vacuum 10 years and have pulled threads out countless times. However it still has the original belt on it. To change belt: 1.) There is a plastic plate underneath roller, towards front.. Pry the 3 tabs at front, the plate hinges downward slightly (to clear the front tabs). Next, there are 2 little clips at bottom of plate. Insert screw driver at each of these clips to fully release the plate the rest of the way. (Or it may even come off without having to pry back on these. The plastic clips need pushed towards front, to clear the ridge that catches towards the back). Pry one, then the other, clip forward, while gently pulling the plate the rest of the way out. (Gentle prying will assure it will snap back together OK, so you still get a good seal.) You now should see the whole roller brush. 2.) Remove the shell/motor cover: To do this, a.) pull off the rug height adjuster lever, and take not where you put it so you won't loose it. b.) push foot release down and keep vacuum bag in the vacuuming/hinged/operating position (not the upright/locked position), and position cleaner on it's side, or upside down. c. Pry around the bottom edge, starting at right corner, then go around, prying in about 4 different places. Shell/motor cover will now easily pull off (upward and out towards front), exposing motor shaft and light bulb. 3.) remove belt from motor shaft. 4. slide roller and old belt out the bottom. 5.) remove old and place new belt on roller 6.) slide roller back into place. 7.) wrap other end of belt on motor shaft. 8.) shell cover, rug height adjuster knob, and bottom plate snap back into place. check that roller turns without much effort. 9.) It now should be ready to plug in and vacuum.

Hello, W/D here.

At the back of the saw, where it hinges, is a pin that locks the pivot joint. Push down on the saw handle while pulling the pin, then allow the saw to rise to the ready position. Reverse the order to store the saw.
Best regards, --W/D--

I have a Lexmark X6570 All In One Wi-Fi model. Just had the problem where I went to print and received an error message saying that the cover was open (when it wasn't). I noticed that the back right hand corner had slightly popped out of place for no apparent reason. Tried to pus it back into place with no luck.

Here's what happened and how to fix it:
There are two plastic hinges at the back of the 6500 series printers that allow the top cover to open for access to the ink cartridge carriage. The lower ends of the hinges are cylindrical shaped and each contains a very stiff steel spring inside. They are designed to prop the cover of the printer up and hold it open when opened. As the plastic material ages, it may weaken and the tension of the internal spring may break the round end of the hinge off. This causes the printer cover to not fully close (even though it may appear so). There is a switch in the main printer body that detects when the top cover it open (even partially), and the printer won't work in this condition.

To fix this, open the top cover and carefully disconnect the 3 wire harnesses and the ribbon cable that run from the top cover to the base of the printer. Then remove the 'paper jam' hatch cover from the back of the printer. There are two phillips screws on the back panel of the pinter (one is located behind the paper jam hatch cover). Remove these screws (they secure the plastic hinges in place). You should now be able to lift the complete top cover/ scanner table assembly off the rest of the printer. Look for a steel spring about 3 inches long...remove this along with the round base of the hinge which may have broken off and remained down inside the printer. Glue this piece back onto the end of the hinge, but leave the spring out. Now reassemble the printer in the reverse order of disassembly and you should be good to go. Note that the top cover or the printer will not stay propped open on it's own with the spring removed, but this is not really an issue.

I am not sure if new replacement hinges are readily available from Lexmark or other sources.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_472b46f833fc3109

Several things could be the cause:- Before looking at the list below ensure that the throttle body interior is spotlessly clean and that the air ducting and all vacuum lines are free of leaks. Check all relays and fuses On the fuel line on the engine there is Shrader valve (like the one for the tire). It is possible to check fuel pressure at this point with a gauge. If there is insufficient pressure here then this points to a possible fault with either the fuel pump, its relay or its fuse.
1) Idle air control - The idle air control is closely associated with the throttle body. Its function is to bleed air to the inlet manifold past the closed throttle plate. There are teo types of throttle control a) a motor that opens the throttle plate a tiny amount b) an auxiliary passage opened by a valve around the closed throttle plate How to check? Physically remove the IACV but keep the electrical connection to it. Turn the engine on and examine the IACV valve movement in response to additional loads (power steering inputs etc). The valve should open and close according to demand causing perceptible change in engine speed with increased power demand being made on the engine.

The electrical connector to the IACV can have 2 or 4 pins:-

2 pins: resistance between pins should about 10 OHMS +/- 3 OHMS. Resistance between either of the pins and the valve body is greater than 10,000 OHMS

4 pins: resistance between diagonally positioned pins should be about 20 OHMS

2) Throttle position sensor - Sometimes with ignition off it is possible to reset the TPS by depressing the accelerator fully and releasing quickly. Ignition might be enhanced by depressing the the throttle slowly. If the car cuts out if the accelerator is depressed quickly this is another indicator of a bad TPS. How to check? The socket for electrical connection with the TPS has 3 pins, one for 'ground', one for 5 volts 'reference' and a third (generally the middle one) for 'signal' output. Back probe the signal pin in the connector to the TPS. Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter to the probe and measure the voltage output as the throttle plate is rotated. If working correctly the meter should show a voltage consistent with the throttle position from approximately 1 volt when closed and 5 volts when fully open. What is looked for is smooth voltage increase with throttle change. If there are drop outs in the transition or that there is no transition seen the TPS is faulty.
3) cam or crank sensor faults - 2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise. I appreciate here that due to a lack of starting in your case it just might be impossible to check the 'warmed up' situation. I hope this helps.

have you ajusted the door catch pin to the corect position and does the door line up you might have to ajust the hinges to level the door properly


check the door lines make sure it hits the pin in the right spot if not grab the pin and loosen it with a pair of vise grips and ajust up down or in and out if required

if it is the hinges loosen the botom and top and slide th hinges eithor way remember to ajust 1 hinge at a time onlt loosen 1 hinge at a time if door needs to go up loosen the botom hinge slightly and pull up on back of door when it's almost closed then open door and tighten botom hinge
if too high try loosening it then push down on the back of door