Fault code F2

Understand that I am not a professional, so this answer is subject to revision by someone who is more knowledgeable.

Where I live now I'm on Natural Gas, but in the past I've had electric stove/ovens. Based on my best recall the situation you describe is NOT abnormal.

When in the Broil mode, the Bake element is NOT on, but the Broil element is on FULL-bore to provide that strong radiant heat required for the Broiling process, AND for the good browning /crusting of the product being Broiled!!!!!

On the other hand, when Baking, not broiling, IF the Broiling element were on high it would provide too much radiant heat to the top of the product being Baked, and would burn the top.

While Baking, by energizing the Broil element in a lower power setting, the Baking process is enhanced with more heat by the assistance of the Broiler element, BUT without the hazard of burning on the top!!!!!

Hope this is right and helps your understanding.

GE / Hotpoint / RCA
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC


Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock


Amana / Caloric
Oven Fault Codes
Type with display - glass link ERC
Display Condition Remedy
F0 No Safety Signal Replace adapter board
F1 No Safety Signal Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F7 Shorted Touch Panel Replace Glass Panel
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch
FF Lock Error Check switch and motor
ERC III - Relay board with separate board/push buttons
F0 Shorted Push Pad Replace Push Pad
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace touch pad
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch


The following diagnostic chart Does not apply to Whirlpool 'Y' line products. If the model number contains a Y near the end of the number, DO NOT use this chart.
Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Roper
Oven Fault Codes
Ovens with 4 digit displays
Display Condition Remedy
F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure Disconnect panel for 30 seconds. if error re-appears then replace control
F1-E1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2-E0 Shorted Keypad Replace Keypad
F3-E0 Sensor or Sensor Fuse Open Replace Sensor or Fuse
F3-E1 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F3-E2 Oven over heat Replace Sensor
F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
F5-E0 Door Error Check Door
F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
Ovens with 2 Digit Displays
F0 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Problem with time keeping circuit Reset Time or cooking operation and check for proper ground
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace ERC
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch and latch circuit


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

your oven uses fboth the broiler element and the oven element during baking. Since you know the broiler element works, you most likely will have to replace the oven element.

Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

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It won't bake or broilIf neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

• When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.


You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.


• When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.


If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

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MAYTAG
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad)* F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or bad oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)

Hi All,

I tired the delayed bake work around and it didn't help me.

So, being a trained scientist... I know just enough to be dangerous! Here's what I learned. (imitate me at your own risk. This thing is on a 220V circuit at 30A... you or someone else in your house could get badly killed if you do something wrong. You definitely want to send small children to the movies, or at least to bed before trying this!)

First, I turned the self-clean on for 60 seconds to see if both elemets were working. The broiler got bright red but the bake element didn't. The door unlocked as soon as I shut it off, so I could I touched an ice cube to a few insided parts to see how hot they were. The bottom of the oven was barely warm, but the baking element instantly melted and sizzled my ice cube.

Good enough for me: Both heating elements are working, so it must be a controller problem.

Next I turned the power off at circuit breaker, and double checked that the oven was dead. I pulled it out of the wall and removed the top sheet metal cover. Inside I found a red plastic envelope containing a "Tech Sheet". It has a schematic diagram, plus a table that explains the error codes and what to do about them. Be sure to read all the dire warnings and the bit about "For Service Technician's use only" before deciding that you are foolish enough to do anything with it. :-)

I undid and inspected the connector for the printed ribbon cable from the keypad to the controler circuit board. (I happen to know, being a scientist, that 90% of all problems in the universe are caused by bad contact) I didn't see anything obviously wrong, so I reassebled it carefully, making sure the ribbon was fully seated.

I then powered the thing up. It said PF for power failure. I pressed cancel for 5 seconds and it said F0E0 which means no pre-existing fault was detected.

I then pressed bake, and lo and behold the damn thing baked! :-)

I'm not certain it was bad contact, since the other 90% of the world's problems are caused by software. It's entirely possible that power cycling was this thing's idea of CTRL-ALT-DEL. Maybe someone can try flipping the breaker off for 10 minutes without taking anything apart, to see if that clears the problem?

I also have no idea how long this will stay fixed....

Has anyone tried calling Whirlpool? 1-866-698-2538, M-F, 8 am - 8 pm Local Market Time, Sat. 8:30 am - 5 pm Local Market Time, according to their website.
Stay tuned... if I'm not back, the thing is still baking... :-)

Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)