Older black & decker bench grinder

Both and could also be the switch on the grinder

It doesn't need to be Delta, all it needs is to be 8" diameter, same width (1" or 3/4" or 1/2" or whatever), and have an arbor hole (or plastic adapter) the right size - they're all pretty standard.

You can buy wheels like that locally at your hardware store, or online at Amazon or eBay or Sears or any number of other places. They're nearly as common as dirt, and really inexpensive.

I have two different coffee grinders and if it is just the tip of one side of the blades you can continue using it, if there is a large portion that is broken I'm not sure of that model. Hint: check to see if the part is still in the grinder set the grinder for the most coarse grind, don't turn it on, shake it upside down to see if the broken potion is still in the grinder. If you find nothing use the grinder unless the performance is less than you like.

the drive belt is most likely broke, you can check with the store you got it from ,if they dont have they mite know where you can get one . I hope this helps you .

Lubricate the bearings. The lube has probably hardened. The shaft should turn freely. You can clean the bearings using CRC226 available at Home Depot elec dept.

If the unit has ball bearings they may need to be replaced.

I had the same problem, I went to a pawn shop, some times they have part for some of the items they buy . I wish you luck in finding one. it took me some time. hope you find one

A bench grinder would be unlikely to need oiling, but if it has such a provision there would be spring loaded caps or a set screw caps on the motor body near both arbors. The real concern is if the wheels have been compromised by taking a hard bump that could weaken them. This is an unlikely problem if grinder hasn't been dropped or had something heavy drop onto a wheel. If you have no reason to suspect wheel damage, and it runs without squeaking or excessive vibration, and the cord is not damaged, and there are no loose parts on it - then you have nothing to worry about. But you might want to consider "dressing" the wheels. Google "Grinding dresser" and read the Wikipedia article.

is it possible that you have misplaced the inner clamp washer? I looked at a print on this tool and that is the only thing that I can see unless it has major bearing problems. Did this just start after a wheel change and what is the possibility that the wheels are too big and hitting the housing or there is a build up of grinding dust in the bell where the wheel turns. Most of the parts for this tool are probably discontinued. You can go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under manuals type in your model number for a copy of the breakdown that I looked at.

Grinding is the fastest way to deburr a sharp corner or dress the end of threaded rod or bar stock that's been cut to length. Fit a grinder with a wire wheel, and you have a handy tool for removing rust. Then switch to a buffing wheel and you're ready to polish metal to a mirrorlike sheen. But for most of us, grinders are essential for shaping and sharpening hardened tool steel and high-speed steel.

Bench grinders aren't designed for precision work. In fact, they're really freehand tools that rely on a good eye and careful touch. And while you can take some tools, like drill bits or turning tools, right from the grinding wheel to the work, it's common for grinding to be a relatively coarse, preliminary shaping procedure, followed by careful honing on a whetstone.