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Sounds like your selector knob may net be making proper contact with electricity. You have changed everything else. You could check power available with a multimeter to your element. If power not available to your element, back trace to source and check for burned wires or breaks in wiring.
Hope this helps!
Only offering I have for a consumer is to run a "highpot" test on the cooling unit. This will bypass all the controls from the board and test the function of the cooling unit. Remove the leads from the board for the heating element and connect leads directly to 110 volts. Run for 3 hours to see if cooling is stating in the freezer. If cooling detected let run for 6 hours. So on and so forth. DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 12 HOURS LIKE THIS!!!!!!! If no cooling detected in the first 3 hours the unit is "stopped up" and will have to be replaced.
Is the fan in the freezer section running?
IS the heating element on when it should not be?
Is the defrost limit switch not shutting the heater off?
Is the defrost drain /trap clogged?
the unit runs on gas(LPG) so the unit is operational
by ac I take it you mean mains power and by dc you mean 12 volts it being a 3 way cooler
you cannot "jump start" a gas system so I am a bit lost with that statement
check the heating element in the unit for continuity as both the mains and 12 volt power only heat and element that boils of the coolant liquid in the system the same as the lpg flame does
it could be a relay problem for the electrical part
Have you tested for 12 vdc at terminals where element is connected to board? If yes, and 12vdc is present, then I'd pull element out and bench test it carefully. Just let it cool down, and attach 12vdc from a battery or other source to it and see if it heats up. Careful not to burn your fingers or hand when feeling outside of element for heat. If no heat felt, replace it.
Heating Element is shorted out, circuit board is bad, or you have a 110 volt wire shorted to ground. If it does operate for a few hours the latter is not likely. Do an ohms reading on the heating element, should be 35-45 ohms. If it is infinite the element is shorted
Make sure the thermister is attached firmly to the fins in the back. The boards on a Norcold can be reset a service center familiar with this process is your best bet. It takes disconecting the board and then shorting it out best to leave it to some one who is familiar.
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