The replacement GE WB27X10910 transformer I purchased has the connector lug pattern in the reverse order when looking at it with the base of the unit to the left...wide lug to the left and two narrow lugs to the right on the original, and just the opposite on the replacement...two narrow to the left and wide to the right. Do I just reverse the position of the connectors since the double connector only fits one way and the remaining narrow lug would be for the remaining single wire connector. Trans part numbers are both SHV-U1870C

GE profile is a series, not a model. Look inside the microwave and you will see a sticker with the model number on it. Take that number and look it up online you will find many options for the part for your unit. Why do you need both? typically with GE it is usually the mag and maybe the rectifier. If a transformer goes bad it typically burns up and smells horrible. I mostly find bad mags on GE, the ones they use are not very good. OM75P = junk

if you are familiar with Micro oven servicing follow these steps

.Repairing a microwave oven is a dangerous task. The high-voltage potential combined with the high-current capability of an operating microwave oven pose a deadly threat to a careless worker
1.Shorted Magnetron tube.
2.Replace Magnetron tube
3.Check Built-in surge protection on printed circuit board has opened. This circuit consists of a fine foil pattern (or filter coil - depending on the model) that acts to fuse the primary side of the low-voltage transformer.
4. Rebuild the surge protection circuit. Replace the varistor
5. Magnetron filament connectors have loosened and, due to resistive heat, the terminal connections have deteriorated and burned off.
6. Repair defective terminals as follows:Either (1) Cut away burned wire, clean the magnetron terminals, and replace the slip-on connectors, or (2) Cut away burned wire and connector(s). Clean terminals to prepare for soldering. Solder filament leads directly to magnetron terminals. Be careful not to apply soldering heat any longer than necessary
7. Check for Weakened fuse clips in the fuse receptacle causing fuse to melt due to resistive heat. Usually indicated by a bead of solder leaching out from either endcap and/or evidence of overheating (or burned spot) at the endcap, fuse clip, or terminal connection

8. Replace amp fuse and receptacle. Generic fuses and fuse holders are available at appliance and electronic part suppliers.
9. Contact service center .. all the best ..thank you

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Often it is a simple part replacement. There are 3 parts that can usually cause this. The most common failure is the power diode. You remove the chassis to gain access and then make sure you hold a screwdriver and ground the large capacitor at least 3 times across the terminals. Then you can check the diode by using an ohm meter across the terminals. It should read continuity in one direction only. (reverse lead polarity) If it reads in both directions OR there is no continuity then the diode has failed. Next you test the high voltage capacitor by reversing the leads and watching each time for a jump in resistance then the meter returns to infinity. (Diode must be disconnected) No jump in resistance after reversing the test leads or constant resistance = bad capacitor. Lastly the Magnetron could have failed. You read resistance of the leads of the Magnetron with one lead disconnected. You must read resistance. No resistance = bad magnetron
These are the 3 most common failures.

There is a very very remote possibility that the high voltage transformer has failed but the instances of a failed transformer are maybe 1 in 300.

When you open it up look for any signs of burned or hot wires / contacts then perform the tests in the first paragraph above.

You should be able to breathe life back into your microwave by troubleshooting. One thing to note is you can walk into a LOCAL Appliance parts supply with failed part in hand and purchase GENERIC parts to save yourself loads of money. The diode lists for over $50.00 and I know for a fact you can buy a non-GE one for less than half that at a local Appliance Parts source.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



It *may* have the part number of the low voltage transformer, possibly on a loose sheet inside the mini manual.

Otherwise, you can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

There should be a part number on the label of low voltage transformer.

The GE part number will be something like WB##x##### and the Samsung number will be something like DE_#######.

The Samsung part number is almost always cheaper.

Feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It is hard to find a universal with such a high output , I was able to get the part number for the transformer that goes into the unit you listed.
WB27X10893
should find it online ok , here's where I found it
http://www.partstore.com/GetModel.aspx?MfgName=General+Electric&BrandName=General+Electric&ModelNumber=JVM1640SJ&Page=1&SortBy=price&SortDirection=desc#PartsearchSKUList
Hope this helps.
Phil

Hello mrobinert,
The sound you may be hearing could be the filament transformer breaking down or the magnetron tube failing ..they will arc and eventually fail. If you aren't getting any microwave energy ( to heat material in the cooking compartment) then in all probability it is either the transformer, magnetron or high voltage capacitor.. None of which are something you want to repair yourself... My advice is that if the cost to repair exceeds teh cost to replace then just buy a replacement model. If yours is under 1 year old, then you may be able to negotiate and get a replacement from the store where you purchased it.. If it is older than a year, it's probably cost effective to just buy a new model.
Regards,
Rick

drive for the turntable is quite easy to do, as for the transformer people have been killed trying to replace key components and if you seriously have no understanding of electrics and electronics then i'd pay the labour costs (its called high voltage for a reason) even with the oven off therecan be upto 3000v still within the oven and believe me it hurts when it shocks you, also with the transformer faulty it could have caused damage to the diode, mag and capacitor not always but sometimes and these are easier to check when changing hv transformer!!!!!

We have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting. It will help you test the keypad with your meter.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

If you'd rather have us fix it for you, we do that for $39.95 plus parts.

DISCONNECTING THE KEYPAD

1. Be sure the oven is disconnected from the power line while you are taking it apart.

2. The keypad connection is the green or blue translucent plastic strip that plugs into a connector near the edge of the board.

3. There are two tiny tabs (one on each side) of the connector that you can gently pull up on to unlock the connector.

4. Then the keypad strip will lift out. Clean both sides of the end of the strip with alcohol-based cleaner if you like, but do not use ammonia-based cleaner. Dry the end of the strip. (A pencil eraser is better and safer).

5. Put the keypad strip back in, making sure both sides are down fully.

6. While holding the strip down, push the connector back down to lock it.

7. Try the keys again with the door closed.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

GE Microwave ovens, and Microwave Ovens produced by GE but released under different brand names, have had several power problems for the past 20 years. Because it is so easy to sell parts and charge outrageous rates for repair GE never corrected the problems. They just continued it in the next model. They found that you would most likely purchase a new unit rather than paying $75. for a service charge, and $150. for labor plus parts (if out of warranty period).
Most failures were cold solder connections on the power relay board. These would come completely dis-connected after arcing and burning away the solder. Could be 1 month, could be years, but they knew it would happen. This power relay board feeds 120volts to the LV (low voltage) side of the HV (high voltage) Transformer. No High Voltage,,No cook. Everything seems to run normal, but if you listen carefully you will not hear the low tone from the HV Transformer. Over my thirty years in the business I have re-soldered rather than replace so many I couldn't count.
Next to that, a defective Magnetron.