SOURCE: Some buttons work, some don't.
The keypad may be bad. Most often they go bad due to moisture from cleaners being sprayed directly on them or steam from the cooktop when the vent fan is not used.
They can also go bad when the unit is stored in an unheated environment where there's a lot of air temperature change (hot during the day, cold at night, etc.)
It may also be some residue on the connections where the keypad plugs into the control board. Unplugging then replugging the keypad can sometimes clean them.
In other cases, a new keypad is needed.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
SOURCE: GE Above the Cooktop Oven Microwave JVM1533 Turn table does not move
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)
In this case, I would suspect the primary interlock door switch.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should also be a a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. It's very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE microwave oven - just stopped stopped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE JVM1440BD Microwave hood lights don't work
We see (and repair) this
a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which
we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a
week.
At
our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
This light failure often
occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament
shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first
unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a
failure on the controller.
This can often also
affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be
inoperable or stuck on too.
If your relay is bad and you want to replace it yourself, it is part # 3501-001050 and you can find
helpful exploded view diagrams of your microwave and order that part here.
Be sure to also do any needed circuit board repair with 30AWG wire to prevent it from doing worse damage if another bulb shorts.
Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your
full model number) for more information & help.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
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