Need information on circuit breaker BR2100 60amp

The hot air function uses a great deal more current than the other functions. Check the tag on the oven for current requirements, and check the rating of the circuit breaker in use. If the breaker is rated lower than the ovens rated maximum current draw, it will trip under the load. If the rating of the breaker is above the ovens maximum current draw, and there is nothing else plugged into that circuit, the breaker may need replacement.

Curt, a 20 amp breaker will blow if you pull 10.9 amps from it. I suggest having a licensed electrician do your wiring. Likely, you need a permit anyway.

If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..

One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.

Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.

Good luck!

Following wiring diagram is for general purpose household 120V-240Volt service.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-10-1000.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

Why are you asking that question without saying what you are wiring? 120Volt, 277V, 480V etc?
What does rating plate say on device you are connected to 14-3 wire?
And what amp/volt/watt rating are you connecting to 14 gauge wire?
No electrician would omit that information.
14-3 wire is usually only for 3-way switches and other light duty applications.
Must be connected to 15 amp breaker and no larger.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Most likely not.Heating equipment circuit breakers have to be calculated at 100% of the load continuous. That would mean the circuit breaker would have to be rated at 45amps continuous. Most breakers are not. Most breakers are rated at 80% of their rating for continuous loads. So if you installed a 60 amp circuit, 80% of 60 = 48 amps. This would fit your requirement. That would be a 60amp breaker, with #6 cu conductors.

Why don't you simply reposition the circuit breaker?You can replace the circuit breaker with a fuse if you wish but do not go up on the rating. Right off hand, I don't remember the rating on your circuit breaker. But, it it's rated at 40 amps, do not replace it with a 45 or higher rated fuse. The reason is that the circuit breaker is there to protect your wiring harness. If you go up on the rating of the fuse, it allows too much current to flow and your wiring harness is in danger then. Got to almost any automotive parts house and you can buy an inline fuse holder. I'd get one of those Maxi fuse holders, not the little minifuse holders of the glass tube type fuses.

Good Luck
Steve

Tom, Not sure if what you're asking relates to the Maximum electrical energy (Voltage and Amps) that can occur during a short circuit through a properly protected electrical circuit (protected by a circuit breaker, etc.) or if the question is for the maximum amount you could potentially get from a short circuit on a 230V or 400V electrical line to ground OR another electrical line/supply.

IF the circuit is a 230V-AC circuit protected by a double circuit breaker, you could see the entire Voltage (230V-AC) and up to the full Ampere rating of the circuit breaker, (20, 30, 40, 50, etc Amps) during a short circuit condition to Ground.

IF the circuit is a 400V-AC circuit protected by a double circuit breaker, you, again, could get the entire Voltage (400V-AC) and up to the full Ampere rating of the circuit breaker protecting the circuit, when shorted to Ground.

Now, IF the short condition involves one of the above line voltages AND you are having it shorted against another Voltage/Amp circuit, the total potential Voltage and Amps you could experience, would basically be the sum of the two Voltages (and Amps) of the two (2) circuits being put into a short condition. So you would/could see a potential short circuit of whatever voltage is available, depending on what and where the short circuit is occurring.

By way of example, I've seen a 240V-AC 60 Amp circuit shorted to another 240V-AC 60 Amp circuit and the resultant "short condition caused enough damage, due to the voltage and Amps provided, to melt and weld the machinery's electrical connections, rendering the unit a total loss, not to mention that the person that caused the short to occur, received a face-full of melted copper metal bits all over their face and body. Thankfully they were wearing safety glasses, and their eyesight was saved, albeit, with some temporary blindness caused by the extremely bright flash and explosion.

The examples provided assume a properly working/functioning circuit breaker protection. However, if the circuit breakers are faulty, it is possible to recieve much higher vlotages and Amps, since there would be no protective circuit breaker that could trip the power off. In that case, the Main circuit breaker becomes the fail-safe protective device and that could have a much higher Amp rating, thus the maximum Voltage/Amps would be limited by the Main electrical ciruit breaker and electrical supply available at the location where the short circuit occurs.

This could be MUCH higher Voltage and extremely high Amps, depending on the situation and equipment involved.

If you have more information about the particular situation, please post a follow-up comment and I'll provide you with some more info.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Most of those breakers are universal and can easily be replaced. Unless it's a special type of breaker, you can't change the amp rating, you have to get a new breaker with the amp rating that will fit. I can help you better if you explain the reason you want to change the amp rating.

If the rating of circuit breaker is ok, and the unit is operating normally( with normal current reading) then you have replace your circuit breaker with same rating.

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Normally when the circuit breaker blows, it a bad door switch or door switch mount.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
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