Fridge too cold

Hi Gerardine.
The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
or go to this link and have a read up.
Why is my refrigerator not cooling Refrigerator
or this one.
fridge freezer isn cooling or freezing Google Search

When the fridge stops working, can you hear the fan operating inside the unit? It sounds like you have a failing evaporator fan motor. This fan motor circulated cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator.

open evaporator fan & clean.

Kenmore brand refrigerators offer energy efficiency and space saving benefits with a range of innovative designs. The company's refrigerator-freezer units are manufactured in traditional top-mount freezers, bottom-mounts, and side-by-side styles. Occasionally, as with any brand of appliance, the components can malfunction and cause the freezer to stop working properly. A few troubleshooting steps can help locate the problem so that it can be repaired.

1. Power Supply
   • Occasionally the power cord to your fridge slips out, or the outlet it's connected to is defective. Before troubleshooting other potential problems, check that your fridge is plugged in, and if it is, try plugging something else into the outlet to confirm that it is working. If there is no power, check the fuse or circuit breaker and replace or reset if necessary.
     
   Thermostat and Compressor
   • Freezers rely on the thermostat to know when to turn on the compressor and when to turn it off. Thus, the thermostat controls the temperature in your fridge. Typically, for a Kenmore refrigerator, the recommended setting for both the refrigerator and the freezer is 3. Check that both are set properly and if they are, try setting the freezer's thermostat to a slightly colder setting. The refrigerator's compressor should turn on. If you don't hear a fan turning inside, your thermostat or compressor may need to be replaced.
     
   Defrost Timer
   • The defrost timer regulates when the freezer and fridge will run its defrost cycle. If your fridge is not defrosting, or it is defrosting too often, this can affect its ability to freeze food. When in defrost mode, the freezer stops blowing cold air. Test the defrost timer by manually advancing the timer using a screwdriver inserted into the advancement pinion. Turn it clockwise for a 1/4 turn. This should force the timer to advance out of defrost in less than an hour. If it does not, you may have to replace the timer.
     
   Evaporator Coils
   • When the evaporator coils become frozen, your freezer will likely malfunction. If they are dirty or dusty, the same problem can occur. To defrost the coils inside, you can turn your freezer off for 24 to 48 hours then turn it back on. If it works properly, then the evaporator coils were frozen. Clean the coils located on the back of your fridge as well to ensure that dust and debris aren't affecting their efficiency.
     
   Wiring
   • The wiring outside and inside your fridge can be damaged by rodents or pets. Check the wiring outside your fridge for breaks. If there are none, you'll have to check all of the wiring. This is a long process requiring you to use a meter to test each connection. You may want to call an electrician to test the wiring to ensure that it is done properly.
     
   Environmental Factors
   • Once you've checked each component that runs your freezer and confirmed they are working correctly, consider that factors outside the freezer can affect its ability to freeze properly. The problem may be that the door is opened too often or for too long, allowing the cold air to escape and raising the temperature inside. Check the seal around your freezer door to ensure that it is getting a tight seal when closed and no gaps are allowing warm air inside. If you've added a significant amount of food all at once, this will increase the temperature inside and freezing can take several hours. If the vents are blocked by food items the movement of cold air is limited and will affect the freezer's temperature as well.
     

Hope this will help you.
Have a nice day! : )

. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.



DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Your cooling comes from the freezer side through cooling tubes to the refrigerator side.

The first thing is to make sure that the evaporator fan is working, because that will blow the cold air into the refrigerator side. If it is working then you probably have an ice build up around the evaporator. You will need to remove the inner rear panel of the freezer to check it.

If there is a lot of ice on the evaporator fins then your defrost circuit is not working. But if you manually defrost the freezer (a hair dryer will speed it up) and make sure the cooling tubes are clean of ice (can feel the air from the hair dryer on refrigerator side) then you will have anywhere from a few days to a few weeks before the ice build up returns.

So you should troubleshoot your defrost circuit and get the parts on order to be ready for the next time.

its either the defrost heater or defrost thermostat or the defrost timer has gone bad and the evaporator is iced over,HINT: (you will see the inside rear panel in the freezer has frost on it) and the evaporator fan cannot blow cold air over the iced up coils in which case soon the freezer will start to seem warm too,if this isnt the case then its the damper vent door located between the freezer and fridge compartment that opens and closes to throttle cold air into the fridge from the freezer,sometimes they freeze shut from condensation or the door hinge breaks and it can jam shut,also if theres excessive water dripping into the fridge from the top it can be a plugged drain hole and water blocks cold air flow,also make sure the evaporator fan beneath the evaporator coil in the freezer is operating when the units running or cold air wont be pushed into the fridge either

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

If the freezer is cold, it is probably the evaporator fan motor or the damper. The damper is the easiest to check.

Inside the refrigerator compartment, top, center, back is a small plastic grill that snaps out of a larger plastic housing. Tug gently from the bottom edge. You should see a small damper door. If it is closed, push it open. If you feel a flow of air, the fan motor is good and the problem probably has something to do with the damper not opening. If you do not feel the flow of air, it is probably the evaporator fan motor.

If it is likely the damper, you can prop it open to get the refrigerator compartment cold again until you can solve the damper problem. I have not had to solve this problem yet, so good luck.

I've had problems with evaporator motors in every Kenmore appliance I've owned. So, it is probably the evaporator fan motor. The motor is just above the evaporator coils inside the freezer compartment.
Lift out the baskets and lift off the drawer front. Remove the drawer slide mechanism buy depressing a single plastic clip on each side as you pull the slide forward.

If you

fan only comes on when evaporator is down to temp. the fact it is not coming on points to a compressor fault ie evap not getting cold enough