Washer has current going to it check all with tester but I dont know where th fuse is

SOURCE: My washer won't turn on. It just beeps when i

Hi, this is a main control panel issue. here is a procedure you can preform to gain control back.

Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle. Select
DRAIN/SPIN if there is excessive water in the washer.
Re-select cycle and press START.

If the problem persist, you will have to have the control panel repaired by the service tech.

SOURCE: washer went through wash cycle fine, filled for

The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 8318084.

The average price of a replacement lid switch for this model washer is about $15 - $20 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

SOURCE: The washer keeps going unbalanced. I get th ul

Solve the unbalanced problem yourself....
Open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches).

Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you.

Now, look around - see all that rust?

The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles.

Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod.

Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it.

Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball.

Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around - giving you the UL (Uneven Load).

Unplug the washer before attempting any service.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

SOURCE: door locked, won't turn on. won't reset

Remove the bottom panel which would give you access to the pump area if you look up along the side that the door lock is on you will see a cord with a loop on it pull this cord and the door would open. The panel must be removed in order to locate this pull cord. If you have any further questions message me back and please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future Thanks Rick
p.s if after you open the door and you were to leave the unit unplugged for 7 minutes if the error did not go away or if the door once again locked up you would have no choice but to replace the door lock assembly on the unit Thanks again Rick

Testimonial: "Good advice fast! Thank you so much for your time and expertise!"

SOURCE: WASHER FILLS WITH WATER, THEN WON'T AGITATE.

WASHER FILLS WITH WATER, THEN WON'T AGITATE. TURN KNOB TO SPIN AND IT DRAINS THEN SPINS. STILL WON'T AGITATE please show me a diagram