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Posted on Mar 08, 2017
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When machine starts to spin machine clunking sounds.

The tub does spin, takes longer to dry because all the water doesn't spin out of clothes. Took the back off washer from the back when you take hold of the the tub it moves what I believe is way to far. It moves around inside the cabinet to the point that it almost touches inside cabinet walls. from the front pulling back the rubber and seeing the tub there is the plastic outside and stanless steel inside . When we try move the inside tub it doesn't seem to move. there is nothing that appears to be broken. The machine is 7 years old what we are thinking is maybe the shocks could be worn. to the untrained eye it looks like the shocks is what determines how much movement to tub does inside the cabinet. Many people refer to a spider and a bearing when looking at the diagram it refers to a pulley and a nut. they are the part between the tub and the back panel if I'm looking at the right parts they don't seem loose or worn.

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Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2006

SOURCE: Tub and Basket

Fairway, sounds like you have a worn drive block. You are going to have to remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. If it is the drive block you will get some good hammering when the spin cycle stops. I will attach some photos of a worn out drive block. If you want to attempt to handle this yourself, we can walk you through it. Catriver..post back.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 18, 2008

SOURCE: Duet washer door locked

Pull the front panel off, look for a plastic piece , it has a filter that you need to pull out. turn it to the left pull it out and clean it. This solved the problem for me. had the same issues.

wish I new

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 02, 2008

SOURCE: whirlpool GHW9100LW1, belt came off

I had the same problem and being a procrastinator, I waited until the belt came off before launching a full scale investigation into the knocking noise it had been making for about a year. Here is what I found and below that is my no guarantees fix.....
I removed the nut and pulled the tub pulley off. I noticed the tub shaft has a "shoulder bolt" and the pulley could not be tightened onto the shoulder bolt with enough squeeze to keep the tub pulley from wobbling. Tolerance issue... maybe? I decided to measure the keyed tub shaft with calipers and found the thickest part of the shaft to be 1" ish. The Shaft is part of the tub bearing assembly (from my observation) and the tub shaft is part of the tub bearing which measured 1 1/4" diameter. I found a washer that was 1" inside diameter and 1 1/4" outside diameter and placed it over the tub shaft behind the tub pulley. I tightened the nut snugly and reinstalled the belt. Ahhhhh, quiet operation and no more wobble. I will let you know if it causes another problem but from what I can tell.... replacing the tub pulley with another of the same dimensions will not work.

you don't need a very thick washer(my washer is too thick (.1"ish) so I will replace it soon(yeah right) with 1/32" or maybe 1/16"...I used rubber but I think steel or brass or what ever would probably work too.

Purists will tell you that the lock nut should be replaced, or if you don't use the permanent thread locker you could use loctite.

Hope that helps.

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: My Whirlpool Duet front loader is ripping my

My washer ruined 2 king sheets 3 shirts and brand new jogging suit, so I know what you mean! The rubber gasket ...it had 2 metal bands..one on the inside which is a wide one and a small thin one on the outside of the gasket. You really can't see the wide one unless it has started to slipped off or break. or by taking the ting one off,..my wide band came loose which caused the screw to be exposed just enough for something to catch on it, tearing the material, it kept wrapping around and around untili eventually the band came completely off. I hope this helps.

Linda

Anonymous

  • 187 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 26, 2009

SOURCE: LOUD RATTLE ON WHIRLPOOL GHW9150 ON SPIN CYCLE

Hi,
Try this link
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/washer/diagwasher.php
pls rate my suggestion....

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If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.


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Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag), a worn clutch (GE/Hotpoint), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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