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I'm looking for a new cooktop and it seems every retailer has a different opinion about the surface. One says I would hate stainless because it's hard to keep clean and is porous so it will stain. Another says stainless is most popular and people love it. My only other choices are white (the grates are either black or bright gray) or black which would not go with the rest of my kitchen. Any info about stainless sure would be beneficial to me.
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I HATE TO TRY AND EXPLANE THIS FOR FEAR SOME THING MAY GO WRONG DID YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO THE LETTER. FROM NATURAL GAS TO LP YOU SHOULD OF HAD TO CHANGE THE POSISTION OF THE ORVICE IN THE REGULATER THAT IS WHY YOU ARN'T GETTING THRU THE REGULATOR CHECK YOUR DIRECTIONS AGAIN SOME TIME YOU HAVE TO THIGHTEN THE NUT ON THE REGULATOR SO IT DISTORTS THE ORFICE TO LP, AND SOME MODELS YOU HAVE TO TURN THE ORFICE OVER. BECAREFUL AND TRY AGAIN
How long does it take for the light to finally go off?or does the light ever go off when a cooktop decrease in tempreture has to reach the tempreture set by the factory for that light to go off. Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.If you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation Thanks again
Rick
Most likely it needs a new hot surface ignitor, which is normal wear and tear. Can cost you around $200-400, depending on where you live. DCS oven appliance repair in orange county, ca
have you tried cooktop cleaner? this seams to work pretty good at getting stains out of stainless steal. (You know...cooktop cleaner is really just car wax if you had some try this on a little area and see how it works and if you like the results...there you go.) let me know what you think. But like i said always do a test point before doing the whole surface.
sounds like the air /gas mixture is off.look at where the burner meets the gas valve (the knob) under the grates and play with the adjuster turn it slowly while the burner is on and this will change the value of the air/gas mixture good luck
alot of installers will use a silicone glue to "seal" the unit to the countertop. what happens is that means you cant get it out without cutting the glue off first. it could also be that the unit is very tight in the countertop. also did you remove the "hold down" screws from underneath the unit first??? there should be a screw on each side below the unit.
one more thing... do you have a gas line under your counter? if not be sure you can get a gas line to it before you try to remove the old unit. most homes have a finished ceiling under the kitchen and it would be almost impossible to install a new gas line if its not already there.
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