Using multimeter to test the ignition coil what is the good reisistance should i read and at what terminals should i test it. its for 2006 pathfinder.

To test the ignition module on a 1995 GMC Sierra 5.7, you can follow these steps:
1. Safety Precautions: Ensure the vehicle is in park or neutral with the parking brake engaged. Also, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to prevent any accidental electrical shock.
2. Locate the Ignition Module: The ignition module is typically mounted on the distributor or in close proximity to it. It is a small, rectangular component with electrical connectors and heat sinks.
3. Inspect the Wiring and Connections: Examine the wiring harness and connectors leading to the ignition module. Look for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Ensure all connections are secure and in good condition.
4. Test the Ignition Coil: The ignition module works in conjunction with the ignition coil. You can test the coil by connecting a spark tester to one of the spark plug wires and grounding the tester. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe if a spark is present. If there is no spark, it may indicate a faulty ignition coil or module.
5. Use a Multimeter: If the ignition coil tests fine, you can use a digital multimeter to test the ignition module. Set the multimeter to the resistance (ohms) setting. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition module and measure the resistance between the appropriate terminals, as specified in the vehicle's service manual. Compare the readings to the manufacturer's specifications. If the resistance values are significantly different from the specified range, the ignition module may be faulty.
6. Consult a Service Manual: It's essential to refer to a detailed service manual specific to your GMC Sierra 5.7 for accurate testing procedures and specifications. The manual will provide step-by-step instructions and values for testing the ignition module.
If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with performing these tests yourself, it is recommended to seek assistance from a qualified automotive technician or a GMC dealership. They will have the expertise and specialized equipment to diagnose and repair the ignition system accurately.

This might help

A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower, that's the reason why sparks are not appearing

Testing an Ignition Coil

This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.

So Jason you need a little experience in electricity to solve the problem. You and multimeter., or a test light. If you have a test light. first you need to check the fuse. 1Put the ignition on, 2 put the test light in a good ground and check all fuses. The test light need to light bright on both terminal of the fuse. If all fuses are good .go on the tell light remove the bulbs check for power in ground. To check power and ground. You need to check a good body ground for the test light. Check power and ground if you find power and ground you need a good bulb check the contact of the. Bulb in the connector. If you don't have power or ground. Use the multimeter to check for continuity on both wire. How to do that. Turn off the ignition, use the a good ground attach the black lid in ground and red lid in one of the pin of the light bulb. Turn on the ignition put multimeter on volt and one of the pin of the bulb connector should give you 12 voltor (OL)the other one turn ignition off put the multimeter on resistance you should have a good ground or out of limit (OL) . If you have OL for one that mean one the wire is open. You need Chase the wire to fix the opening.

Inspect/Test/Replace Hope this helps.

An ignition switch supplies voltage to the ignition control module and/or the ignition coil. Often an ignition sytem thas two wires connected to the run terminal of the ignition switch. On is connected to the module. The other is connected to the primary resistor and coil. The start terminal of the switch is also wired to the module.
You can check for voltage using either a 12-volt test light or a digital multimeter (dmm).
To use a test light:

• Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the wire connector at the module.
• Disconnect the S terminal of the starter solenoid to prevent the engine from cranking when the ignition is in the run position.
• Turn the key to the run position and probe the red wire connection to check for voltage.
• Check for voltage at the battery terminal of the ignition coil using the test light.
• Next, turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the white wire connector at the module and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. If voltage is present, the switch and its circuit are okay.

To do the same test using a DMM:

• Turn the ignition switch to the off position and back-probe, with the meter's positive lead, the power feed wire at the module.
• Connect the meter's negative to a good ground at the distributor base.
• Turn the ignition to the run or start position as needed, and measure the voltage.
• The reading should be at least 90% of battery voltage.

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Hi,

I'm Ben and -- hopefully -- I can provide some meaningful assistance.

I recommend a diagnostic scan to confirm my diagnosis of a malfunctioning coil(s).

How to Test and Replace Ignition Coil on BMW 3 Series

The following procedures apply for BMW 3 series (6-cylinders engine) 1992 - 1998 model years. To Test and Replace the Ignition Coil, do the following:

1. Remove plastic engine covers from top of engine by prying off nut covers and removing cover mounting nuts.
2. Disconnect harness connector from coil. Connect multimeter between terminal 15 (+) in connector and ground. (use a digital multimeter for the following test). See Fig.1. below BMW 3 series coil harness
3. Turn ignition on and check for battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present, check wire between terminal 15 and ignition switch. The wiring to terminal 15 (+) of the coil (via the ignition switch) is not fuse protected. Use care when testing this circuit.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Use a multimeter to test coil primary resistance at coil terminals. (primary coil terminals: 1 (-) and 15 (+), primary coil resistance: 0.4-0 .8 ohms; secondary coil terminal and resistance: NA).
6. Remove coil and inspect coil housing for hairline cracks or leaking casting material . A leaky ignition coil may indicate a faulty engine control module (ECM). Check ECM before installing a new coil.
7. When replacing ignition coils, ensure that the replacement coil(s) are from the same manufacturer containing the same part code numbers. If individual coils with the correct specifications are not available, all coils should be replaced.

Hi, here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem. Please let me know if you have questions.

First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.




If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.

IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF , disconnect the battery, then detach the wiring harness connector from the ignition coil to be tested.
2. Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals.

PRIMARY RESISTANCE

1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the following terminals on the ignition coil, and note the resistance:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines


B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.

SECONDARY RESISTANCE

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine ignition coil harness connections-3.0L and 4.0L engines

1. Measure, using the ohmmeter, and note the resistance between each corresponding coil terminal and the two spark plug wire towers on the ignition coil. The coil terminals and plug wires towers are grouped as follows:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines

Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6 Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4

If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)

Fig. Fig. 3: CKP sensor wire harness connections for the 4.0L (VIN X and E) engines


If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.

Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

Hi, first check the 20 amp fuse D. If good, use a 12 volt test light to check for power on the positive coil terminal (green wire/orange stripe, key on). If no power, the problem is with the ASD relay ot ignition switch. If power, the problem is the timing signal from the PCM or the coil itself.
No coil power:
pull out the auto-shutdown relay and probe the socket with a 12 volt test light:
hook the test light clip to ground and probe the socket terminals. There should be one hot terminal (from fuse D) with the key off and 2 hot terminals with the key on (turn-on signal from ignition switch).
Move the test light clip to battery positive and probe the socket again.
With the key on, there should be one terminal that lights the light brightly (PCM turn-on signal) and one that light it dimly (load terminal)

If there is power to the coil, test the coil primary and secondary winding impedances using an ohmmeter. If the coil is good, test the crankshaft position sensor. Set the ohmmeter to the 1K-10K scale. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (see the illustration). The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). If a low resistance is read, replace the camshaft position sensor.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

P1370 Ignition Control (IC) Module 4x Reference too many pulses

P1350 Ignition Control System

Ok, these codes are signaling a malfunction within the Ignition control module. it is sending way to many signals to the coil. i recommend testing the coil for damage and irregular resistance. i will explain how to do this below. i would replace the module as well. The control moduel is Located Under hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in base of ignition coil pack

Ignition Coil Test Procedures__

Ignition Coil Resistance

* with the key off and the battery lead to the ignition coil disconnected, use an Ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistance of the ignition coil. when checking the resistance across the windings, pay particular attention to the meter reading. if the reading is out of specifications, even if it is only slightly out, the coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
* To check the primary windings, calibrate an ohmmeter on the X1 scale and connect the meter leads to the primary coil terminals to test the winding.



* An infinite ohmmeter reading indicates an open winding. The winding is shorted if the meter reading is below the specified resistance. Most primary windings have a resistance of 0.5 to 2 ohms, but the exact manufacturer's specifications must be compared to the meter readings.
* To check the secondary winding, calibrate the meter on the X1,000 scale and connect it from the coil's secondary terminal to one of the primary terminals.



# A meter reading below the specified resistance indicates a shorted secondary winding. An infinite meter reading proves that the winding is open.
# In some coils, the secondary winding is connected from the secondary terminal to the coil frame. When the secondary winding is tested in these coils, the ohmmeter must be connected from the secondary coil terminal to the coil frame or to the ground wire terminal extending from the coil frame. Many secondary windings have 8,000 to 20,000 ohms resistance, but the meter readings must be compared to the manufacturer's specifications. The ohmmeter tests do not indicate such defects as defective insulation around the coil windings, which causes high-voltage leaks.