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This is not really a problem but more of a question. How can I modify the 1200 so i can control it's rpm completely. ie so i can run it at any speed between 0rpm and say 100rpm.
I need this for a project I am involved in, any advice would be very much appreciated.
Not sure I understand what you need done. The 1200 has a pitch control, which allows you to control it's speed. Do you want to disable the 33/45rpm function, and assign that to the pitch control, so instead of controlling pitch, you control the RPM? This will put quite a strain on the drive circuits of this unit, but it can be done. Although, not an easy modification, as you will have to modify multiple resistors and IC's on the main board. This should only be professionally done.
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not told hot or cold engine
the controls for idle are not the same , those 2 modes.
how high is high RPM,.
hot is 800 RPM regulated by PCM + isc idle valve.
cold is controlled by IAC,thermal air control valve.
and runs about 1200 to 2000 rpm,cold
cold in Florida is 1200 cold in ALASKA is 2000.
if the thermostat is bad, stuck open, and 150f coolant temp the RPM will be stuck high all the time
as will huge vacuum air leaks, the MAP sensor sees that and engine screams.
pully connectors is useless as doing so puts he PCM in limp home mode and idle controls are disabled in that mode. limp
there are lots more tests, to do. but my fingers are tired.
get shop to fix it?
I would consider changing the vehicle speed sensor. When they go bad, they can really throw out a lot of bad data to the computer, resulting in unexpected behavior like you're experiencing. They're only around $20-$25. I hope this helps! :)
old post
all do, everyone. but. the devil really is in the details with EFI.
this IAC valve does that,
to speed it up warm up , put in a 195F thermostat.
this assumes 800 RPM is hot.
most of these engines, do this. new. bewlow.
1: cold start, for 3 to 15sec, 2500 rpm , worse in alaska.
2: then the above DASH pot closes and IAC takes over, at ~1200
3: then as engine heats the IAC closed inch by micro inch a
its now 100% closed and the ECU not controls idle hot.
using the modulated ISC,
there is a fast idle feature on this year, 950 to1000 rpm hot
with these turned on.
1. headlights hot.
2: defrost glass, rear.
3: heater fan on.
4: a/c on if opted.
other wise 800 is normal hot.
A vacuum leak is unlikely to hold RPM that high. 1st inspect throttle plate not closed all the way, possibly hung up, or cable pulled too tight holding throttle open or accelerator pedal not releasing completely. If ok, next would be a computer controlled issue , Possibly idle speed control motor or throttle body assembly if not cable operated .
This problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
3500 is about normal for an xb at 65 mph. My previous ride was a pickup and rolled at about 2000-2500 on the highway. But the XB's engine is way more "tightly wound". Your rpm gage should run at about half of of your speed...ie: 70 mph will be about 35 (3500) rpm, 80 mph will be about 40 (4000) rpm. Freaked me out when I first got the thing, but after researching it Ive found out that with a stock engine it actually runs more efficient at the higher RPM's. The 06 boxes won't redline until 6000 rpm, so unless you are driving 120 on a frequent basis you're good. You can probably have it modified to run lower, but you will lose the awesome gas mileage and overall it is not going to improve the way it runs, and would have no benefit............
ironmike_926 wrote: no it should be anywhere from 600 to 900 Absolute rubbish!! The idle speed should be between 1250 and 1350 rpm. If the engine is cold, the EFi will raise the idle speed temporarily to about 1600 rpm until it warms up (usually within 5 to 10 minutes at a standstill). Your idle speed of 1120 to 1200 rpm is absolutely fine. However, if it drops any lower, you can raise the rpm by playing with the idle speed adjuster screw located on the gear-side under the fuel tank (can be seen without having to remove the fuel tank). Turn clockwise to increase rpm. You will find details on how to do this by selecting your manual from this link: http://www.yamaha-motor.co.uk/community/service/manuals.jsp WARNING: if the idle rpm continues to drop, you may have a more serious issue with the valve clearances, air-filter, or spark plugs. Consult a technical book (such as Haynes), or take it to your local Yamaha dealer to get it serviced.
Thanks for replying to my question. You pretty much confirmed the advice given to me by KAB.
They recommended that I buy a Numark TT 500 as this has a variable pitch control capable of upto 117 RPM straight out of the box.
James
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