The model # on the pump is 919167783, it is an upright tank, and has worked flawlessly for several years in constant use till the "stock" regulator sprung a leak. When I turn the pressure down on the new regulator, I can hear air bleeding off from inside the regulator. The old one didn't do this. Do I need a certain kind of regulator?
I have worked on compressors from 15 PSI all the way up to 5000 PSI and everyone of the regulators I have seen bleed the pressure of when you dial it down and you can hear it.
SOURCE: Craftsman 5 hp 30 Gal Won't build to more than 50/60 PSi
Most oilless compressors suffer from a short lifespan of the cylinder and piston ring. Unplug the unit and remove the cover to expose the cylinder and rod. Move piston to topmost position and examine the condition of the cylinder. If you see scratches or worn areas close to the top of the cyl. then most likely will need rebuild kit. (Not expensive) If cylinder looks good, remove the head and check the reed valves for debris or broken reed. Reed valve plate is also available as part with gaskets. To extend the life of an oilless compressor try not to use it in dusty or sandy areas as the bottom of the unit is open and tends to **** dirt into cylinder. Good Luck.
SOURCE: Compressor is building up pressure very slow.
It could very well be the valve plate however before you order parts take a look at the cylinders. Unplug the unit, remove the cover from crank side and turn the compressor by hand till the/a piston is at top of stroke. Examine upper cylinder for scratches /wear or failed vinyl piston ring. On oil-free compressors, dirt and grit is sucked-in from the bottom of the cylinder and causes leaks between cylinder wall and piston. If scratched, air pressure is leaking down thru cylinder wall. Failed reed valves cause a pulsation at the intake port (air seems to be pumped out the intake). If you see a model number anywhere on the pump that begins with " WL", your pump is made by Campbell Hausfeld. Parts can be ordered from www.chpower.com. other-wise order parts from sears parts. Cylinder kits are around $40. Good Luck on the repair and email if you have questions.
SOURCE: 3gal. aircompressor - craftsman model #921153101
This problem is not uncommon with small compressors and the inexpensive plastic regulators they use nowadays. The one surefire way to stop it is ti install in in-line valve before the regulator outlet, even if it involves the double ended & threaded brass soupler so they both fit on. This way you can just turn the handles across the line effectively shutting off air flow. I have two pancake compressors and ended up doing the very thing.
Then when time comes to hook up a hose and tool, just switch the handle back and you have air.
Sirwriter
SOURCE: Was working normal suddenly will not build pressure
Maurader1 an apprentice has this problem solved and is spot on. All these gurus and wiz need to stick to the basic and common sense. The first place your pump will give out after use or abuse is the gasket. All this garbage about defective reeds and defective pressure switch is a lot of nonesense if you first don't rule out the most common problem the head gasket. I'm cheap and this thing has paid for itself 10 time over. You can get a gasket kit for $7, but I fabricated a gasket out of the back of my notebook and sprayed some gasket spray and been working like a charm ever since.
SOURCE: Low air pressure
This sounds like it is either the pump is leaking from the piston or more commonly, the rubber seal that seals the outlet tube to the cylinder head blew out like mine. Let me guess, it got a lot louder than it was originally? The seals are readily available from sears parts direct, its like 3 bucks but shipping is around $8. Hope this helped
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