Chromotherm 1V plus how to put intoAdaptive Intelligent Recovery

Installation and wiring, but you need a professional to find where the dead short is.

https://manualzz.com/doc/13088753/nordyne-m3-rl-060-installation-instructions-manual

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The Ruud furnace is probably compatible. Power stealing is a way to recharge the thermostat battery from the 24vac control voltage used to operate the furnace. If you install the Thermostat in the "separate power supply mode" it does not need to power steal ever and will be much more reliable. Some thermostats don't get enough power in the power steal mode to keep the battery reliably recharged, especially during the cold winter months because the poiwer available to "power steal" is highest when the furnace is NOT running. You will need a separate 24 vac transformer and some wire.

Bad or dirty flame detector/igniter.

Sounds like it is tripping on it's high pressure switch. This could be caused by a dirty condenser coil, overcharge of refrigerant, or non condensables in the system ( air most likely). I would get a second opinion from a repuatable company, sounds like he's trying to rip you off.

If this is a new furnace installation then it is normal for it to put out a large volumn of smoke. As long as this stops after a few mins. it's nothing to worry about as it is just a coating of oil they sprayed the heat exchanger with to protect it till installation.
I know the first furnace I installed thirty years ago about gave me heart failure when I turned it on and literally filled the house with smoke. Best of luck and thank you.

A single stage thermostat can be used on a two stage furnace, but there is a dip switch on the furnace computer board that will need to be changed, the directions are in the installers installation guide.
Also not knowing what type and brand of thermostat you have, leaves me guessing, some higher end thermostats have intelligent recovery, if you set it to 70 degrees, at 7 AM, it will try to have the temp to 70 by 7AM, so it could be coming on, even 2 to 3 hours early, depending on the temp. Most of them have a 7 day curve, so it takes awhile for them to adjust, this feature can be turned off, you will again need the installer's install manual.
I hope this has helped, please rate me and also get back to me if you have any more questions.
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

I have an Amana High Efficiency furnace that I purchased 5 years ago this past October (2009). My furnace started making a horrible noise last night and then stopped working. The repair person, told me my draft inducer motor needed replaced, and showed me where the plastic fan blade inside of the inducer was "chewed up." Of course my first question is, "How can a 5 year old furnace need such a costly repair already?" The only answer I received is that it will cost me close to $500.00 to have the situation remedied (service call, parts, labor). I started looking around on the internet today, and discovered that high efficiency furnace inducer motors are usually encased in plastic and the motor fan blades are made of plastic rather than metal like the lower efficiency models. Turns out that these plastic blades over time can't withstand the high heat generated and in time (they estimate 3-4 years) break. The damage to the blades causes an imbalance in the way they spin, which in turn, generates the resulting problem of a damaged draft inducer motor. Appears this is a design flaw. Yeah! I'll say. I spent $3100.00 for a brand new furnace and 5 years later I'm paying another $500.00 and apparently can look forward to doing the same in 3-5 more years! Maybe this answers in part your question?

not all digital thermostats are compatible with the manufacturers circuit control boards in the furnace. Hunter has had this problem several years ago. Other than that you may have miss wired the unit. usually the furnace is used as backup heat (during defrost) or emergency heat if your heat pump konks out. Are you switching to emergency heat for a furnace call?

The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.

On the Pro4000 model you hold the 2 arrows until you go into setup mode. Then arrow up ONLY til you get to option 13. The display will read 13 and 1, press the DOWN arrow and it will read 13 and 0. This turns off Adaptive Intelligent recovery. Now hold the 2 arrows til you see the normal display screen. You are done.

I just did this with a Honeywell tech rep on the phone.