I was watching my 2 year old WD-52525 TV this morning and the set was working fine. This afternoon I turned it on and It is mostly blue with a light blue center and flickering horizontal lines. I tried reset but it didn't help. It responds to the remote, but switching inputs/devices makes no difference (some devices have black instead of blue screens, but with the same flickering lines). The TV menus flicker and dance around the screen and are mostly unreadable. I did the "menu/device" button thing and get a 1 - 2 response which another poster stated was the code for "working normally." Any ideas?
I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!
I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.
I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.
If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:Flickering blue picture - a158dce.jpgg src="/uploads/images/a158dce.jpg" alt="a158dce.jpg" class="h_mi" />
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 anFlickering blue picture - bb3e69c.jpg the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of thFlickering blue picture - 1a03490.jpgaps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
This problem is most likely related to one or two blown 3300/10v capacitors on the power supply.
If you are handy, patient, and can solder then the repair is a snap. If you can't solder, I suggest you take it to a service shop and tell them exactly what you want fixed. That should save you a bunch of money.
Order the capacitors from Mitsibishi. They should cost you around $5 plus shipping and handling. If you want to verify the problem before you order the parts, you'll need to remove the powersupply which is located on the left-hand side of the unit if you are facing the back. The power supply unit is connected to all of the inputs; the whole thing slides out together. Once you slide out the powersupply and input unit, you'll need to remove the shield that covers the power supply. Inspect the capacitors and look for one or two that are raised or bulging.
The particular capacitors you are looking for are on the upper left hand quarter of the power supply board about 2 inches in from the left and about 3 inches down from the top.
Remove the two capacitors, solder the replacements, screw it all back together again and enjoy your TV.
The symptoms are varied but generally can be described as a faint flickering blue screen, often followed by the the lamp no longer operating or the tv going dark. Audio usually works. If you have the back off the TV you can see the lamp power up shortly and then cut off. This is symptomatic of this problem.
Write-me if you'd like more specifics.
In response to Neals solution #2, I was having similar problems with my 62525 and the service guy offered to fix for $600 by replacing a lamp ballast and lamp. The ballast was fine, I just followed neals instructions and illustrations (which were priceless by the way), and everything is fixed and working great. I replaced all 14 caps and I also got them from Mouser Electronics for under $20.
Thanks again neals, well done!
Just an update from the guy who started this thread:
With techman's help, I fixed this problem in an afternoon by switching out a few caps. Cost me about $7. Every shop I went to gave me an estimate of at least $1,000.00.
The disassembling and reassembling are the hardest part (assuming you know how to solder), but they are no problem if you have the repair manual. I NO LONGER HAVE the manual, but it is easy enough to google it and buy/download it. And while it may be "damn silly" for 'centralcoast' to try to fix it himself, anybody else who can read a manual, turn a screw driver, and solder a capacitor should have no problem with this fix.
It should be noted that several people posting here don't seem have to have the same problem as I did, so there is no reason for them to think that the solution is the same. Pay attention to which fix solved which problem, or you could end up even more frustrated.
Neals -
Did everything you suggested and the TV works GREAT!!! You saved us over $300 for a silly repair that cost us less than $10. We appreciate all the info you posted.
Thanks again!
I got a WD-52525 on the side of the road that did not work. I replaced all the caps highlighted by NEALS and the tv works now!
THANKS NEALS!!!!!!!!!
52 inch hdtv for less than $20 in parts!
"PA" should go into the PB it is ziptied to the other wires that went to that board.
There is no wire for PA..
Any case I have replaced the 14 capacitors and it's still blinking. I did find that 4 of the capacitors I replaced were bad (bulging). But unfortunately it didn't solve the problem. :( Guess I have to pop it open and look a bit more inside. *sigh*
Any other suggestions?
Does anyone know why the capacitors bulge and how to prevent it? Also how do you take out the bad ones and install the new ones? Is it a matter of twisting it off and soldering the new ones on? Also, is there any easy way to get to them? Thanks for any help you may have. [email protected]
I'm afraid you could have a power supply problem causing the optic engine and light not to work correctly, or you could have a bad DM board, or a bad light engine. the two latter troubles are very expensive to repair. :>( Good Luck
sounds like a bad DM board, how handy are you or how much experience do you have dealing with ELECTRONIC problems? tell the truth now please as we could get in the middle of something, and have to stop because you do not have the experience I thought?
Thanks for stealing my pictures of this set???????
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I recently changed about 10 capacitors, but I'm having problems with plugging in the correct wires. I labeled everything, but I can't seem to find a wire for "PA". Can you tell me if this should be left without anything plugged into it or should I keep searching? Thanks for your help.
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If I'm getting that 1 - 2 code back, could it still be an error with the DM board or light engine? Also, I noticed that the component inputs don't change the screen at all (it flickers blue whether they are on or off and that device is selected from the TV menu) but the antenna and HDMI inputs produce a picture, but very distorted with horizontal lines etc.
I'm very handy, and though I don't have experience with electronics, my friend is willing to help and he has pretty extensive experience with electronics. I'd love for you to walk us through it.
I have the same exact problem I think. Same error code, same blue with light blue background and no change in inputs even if there is a signal.
I attended ITT for about a year, I would like to try to perform the job myself...I can handle soldering capacitors and things like that, but dont have a lot of diagnostic or "fluke" type meters Im afraid.
Have the same problem... the tv is only two years old, and unfortunately outside of the warranty. Any suggestions?
I'm having this problem as well. One minute it was working fine the next I had a blue screen. I can't get any picture from tuner or video inputs (composite nor component). The menu displays but with flickering horizontal lines.
I let it sit a few days and turned it back on now I get just black screen and it shuts off after about a min and the lamp LED is now orange.
Hoping this is a common / known issue that I can try to fix (I am quite experienced with electronics and have access to a well-equipped lab). Would appreciate some expert advice!
Thanks
I seem to be having the same problem and don't have any experience with eletronics, and I am more interested in NOT getting ripped off by a service center, any suggestions? The TV picture is Blue with distortion lines all over it and I can read that it says underneath the distortion that I should "Check the connections or power. The connections for RGBHV or YPrPB may be invalid." This problem doesn't go away when I change input feeds. I consider myself handy and would try fixing myself but don't want to mislead you about any experience I have. Thanks for the Help?
I seem to be having the same problem. Blue screen with distortion lines, and I can read underneath the line that it says "Check connections or power. The connections for RGBHV or YPrPb may be invalid." I don't have any experience with electronics but consider myself handy, if this is something I can't do then I would still like to make sure a repair shop doesn't take me for a ride. Problem does not go away with input feed change
Same freakin problem, Lamp cuts on for 5 sec turns off and constant red.After reading about the same problems on here, took it upon myself to diagnois.Got to the Pwr board ,sure enough two bulging capacitors.c9a37 & c9a38 and im a plumber by trade. But know nothing about soldering copacitors. Should i have them all changed, now that i have the freakin thing apart ? Or should it be a recall on this model ? New lamp engine, new software, and now this. 3 grand for this TV, only had it for 3yrs.
Same problem exactly. If I have only had the TV 2 years and so many people have had the same problem, has anyone tried to get Misubishi to repair it? It sounds like a manufacturer defect to me. Any ideas?
I am having the same problem. Just happened last night 04/01/08 no April Fools!!! I had perchased the TV March 22nd, 2005 and my luck let the warranty expire through GE. What can be the solution other than spending an arm and a leg to fix the dang thing.
PLDINC
I had the same flickering blue screen. Now the lamp will not power on. Has anyone had success approaching Mitsubishi about a recall?
Same problem, blue screen with horizontal lines, tried changing the bulb,no luck, now the screen is black and after about a minute after power up it goes to red indicator for the bulb....POS.... tried two different bulbs, same problem.
same problem would like to fix it call manny 2135508484,
I have a 52525 that has had the DM board replaced and now Mits wants the tech to send the whole chassis back to them to rebuilt it. They are out of spare parts and have to rebiuld the chassis. Thank God I had the extended warranty. They rented me a new 42" plasma while my 52525 get fixed. I We have been without our 52525 for a month now. This is a major problem that Mits needs to step up on. I will never buy another Mits. Not sure I would take a free one too. GE has the extended warranty. I wonder how much the will spend before they just buy me a new set.
OH MY We went on vacation and the house sitter told us the good news when we came home. Blue screen in center and flickering. I checked the lamp filter and it was not that dirty. I reset the unit and unplugged it and plugged it back in. Now the Lamp light is lit solid Red. I looked at the lamp and it looked ok. Now the T.V starts up, the red lamp light comes on and the T.V. Shuts off.Â
Seems like many folks had this same problem. Is it the lamp or is it something else. Msg on T.V. said: Check connections or Power. The connector for RGBHV or YPRPB may be invalid..... Â Oh my SubZero fridge also died while we where gone.... another 6k!Â
It took the repair guy 2 seconds to say I had the same power supply dm problem as everyone else here. The Fix is very simple. Once I get the written invoice I will call Mitsubishi Customer relations and tell them that they are paying for the repair not me. They used crapy boards in the unit and everyone in the world is having the same issue. Don't bother trying to repair it yourself that is just damn silly folks.Â
I had the Exact same problem but just a day later it all changed from the blue and squiggly liines, to a black screen and red light one under LAMP. I have order a new lamp form Mitsuparts.com and that still did not fix it. The green power light comes one but after about 15-20 seconds it turns red again, the reset button does not help. And Mitsu help center suggested I wait an hour, unplug the TV for that long, take out the lamp and install it again, but that did not work either. Any suggestions?
I have a WD-52525 that I got for free it would not have a pic just lines going across the bottom, I replaced all the caps that neals has highlighted and the tv works. THANKS NEALS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At first the TV was acting up a bit. No picture, shutting off, ect. I had it on yesterday and I got the blue screen with some noise in the center of the screen. Lots of green blinking, then this morning, I got the red solid and no blue screen. Any ideas?
For those that have been able to desolder the capacitors, how hard was it to desolder the capacitors? Â I am using a 230 watt soldering iron that doesn't seem to melt the solder. Â I know it is getting hot as the iron on the soldering iron glows red plus it melts the fresh solder that I have.
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