Not getting 240 volts to lower element- have replaced lower element and both thermostats. get 120 on each leg to ground but no 240

Push circuit breaker fully off and then fully ON
Test for 240 volt across top twp screws on upper thermostat.
If tank was not full of water when breaker was turned on, then upper element burned out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Yes both elements will test for 120 volt to ground at all times... but it takes 240 volt to heat element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Element-tests-for-120-Volts.html

Gene


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Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240 Volt
Press reset button located on upper thermostat
Reset circuit breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Upper-thermostat-w-wire-a-2.jpg

Otherwise elements will test 120 Volt to ground at all times.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html#main

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-reset-circuit-breaker.html

Gene

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Thermostat is rated 120-208-240-277 volts.
Element will work with any voltage too, no matter rating on label. It will burn at different temperatures at different voltaGES.
Any voltage should run water heater.
Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Push in reset button.
Make sure tank was full of water before turning power ON. Or element will instantly burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Are you testing voltage across top two screws on element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Upper-thermostat-w-wire-a-2.jpg
Or are you testing each leg to ground?
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Testing voltage on heater can be tricky since elements can test 120Volt to ground all all times.
This is because thermostats only turn off 1 Hot leg in the 240Volt circuit, while the other hot leg remains live. Each hot leg in 240Volt circuit is 120Volt.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html#120-240
Troubleshoot electric water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#reset
Try following things in order: Press reset button. Test elements. Replace thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Add comment.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Reset trips when upper thermostat senses high heat event over 150 degrees F.

High heat can be caused by:

1) Element shorted to ground through center of element. Thermostats turn off one leg of 240V circuit. Elements always have 120V available. If element is shorted to ground, it might not trip breaker, and continues to heat using one leg of 240 with circuit completed to ground wire.
Test elements:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

2) Insulation and cover not put back over thermostat. Thermostat exposed to cool air, misreads temperature causing element to continue heating.

3) Thermostat sticking in ON position. I usually replace both thermostats at same time to save another trip.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

4) Shorted wire or loose wire at or near upper thermostat. Check that screws are very tight against copper wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

5) One suspect can be eliminated is 240Volt power to heater.
Your heater circuit is good.

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It sounds like upper or lower thermostat.
Thermostats turn off one leg (or one wire) in the 240Volt circuit, so each elements will test for 120V even when thermostat is off.
When thermostat turns ON, it closes circuit by adding the second leg to 240V circuit, and element turns ON.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

Take 30 minutes and troubleshoot before replacing parts:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

You have electric water heater.
You replaced elements and thermostats but heater still won't work.
And tank was completely full of water, and water was running out of a faucet before turning power ON.
If elements are not fully immersed in water, they will instantly burn out.
If upper element is burned out, then tank will have NO hot water.
If lower element is burned out, and upper element is not burned out, then tank will have some hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If elements did not burn out, then that leaves 1 main suspect: the electricity.

1) Push in ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If ECO is tripped out, then heater will not work.

2) Click circuit breaker all the way one direction and then back the other direction to make sure breaker is latched.

3) If tank has 2 elements, then it is 240volt.
If 1 leg of 240Volt circuit is not working, then 240V appliance will not work.
240Volt circuit needs both hot wires to complete the circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and set dial to 240-250-277VAC
Tape tester leads to woods sticks to keep hands away from power.
Power is ON
Test across top 2 screws on upper element should show 220-240 volts.
If you have 240 at top two screws, then skip down to step 6.
If no reading across top two screws, then move to top of tank.

4) Open connection point where wire connects to heater.
Test across both insulated wires should get reading of 220-240 volts.
If no reading, move to circuit breaker box.

5) Mark water heater breaker.
Turn off all breakers except water heater breaker and main breaker. (and breaker to light fixture where box is located)
Do not hold or touch or lean against anything metal.
Stand on dry boards and wear dry clothes.
If main breaker is OFF, the big wires that connect to main breaker are still HOT.

Remove box cover.
240Volt breaker has 2 wires connected with screws.
Test across both screws for 240Volt.
See if wires are loose.
If there is no reading, then breaker is not working on one leg.
To double check, move water heater wires to another same-size 240V breaker and then put ear against water heater to listen for bubbly-fizzing sound.

6) If you are getting 240 to water heater, then wire inside tank could be loose.
Do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

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The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.