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Check the two vacuum hoses on the right
front side, of the front axle housing
You can use a hand held vacuum gauge, to check
the vacuum modulator & see if it will lock the front axle
Have to have the front end up in air & supported &
turn wheel/tire by hand, as you apply vacuum
Keep in mind with 4 wheel drive,only the right rear &
left front are driven wheels,not all 4
If the front axle locks in, with you pulling a vacuum & you have no
vacuum at the front hoses,then go to the transfer shifter & next to
it,is the vacuum switch
jack up front left on level ground ,support and chock rear wheels and set park brake ---look and check the cv axle for leaks,tears or damage -put in neutral and watch axle should turn smoothly turn steering wheel to left and rotate tire again watching axle if their is binding or grinding or studder movement than axle is damaged and needs to be replaced
Get front wheel off the ground.
Undo axle nut (left side). If needed, put a punch through hole in end of right axle end to hold from turning.
Loosen 2 nuts on bottom of fork clamp (left side).
Pull out axle from right side, PAYING ATTENTION WHICH AXLE SPACER GOES ON WHICH SIDE, AND IT'S ORIENTATION, IF IT IS STEPPED!!!!
Tire/wheel will fall out at this point, so HOLD ON TO IT!
check rear wheel bearings for condition and adjustment. Check front axle "U" joints or cv joints for serviceability especially at the turning point for the axle stubs.
The Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) Front Axle consist of the following components:
• Differential Carrier Housing
• Differential Case Assembly
• Inner Axle Shaft
• Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly (located on the right side of the oil pan)
• Electric Motor Actuator
The front axle on Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) model vehicles uses a disconnect feature mounted on the right side of the oil pan in order to engage and disengage the front axle. When the driver engages the 4WD system, the Transfer Case Control Module sends a signal to the electric motor actuator to energize and extend the plunger inside. The extended plunger moves the clutch fork and clutch fork sleeve across from the clutch fork outer gear that is splined to the right side wheel drive shaft to the clutch fork inner gear that is splined to the inner axle shaft. The locking of the two gears allows the axle to operate in the same manner as a semi-floating rear axle. A propeller shaft connects the transfer case to the front axle. The differential carrier assembly uses a conventional ring and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the engine to the wheels. The open differential allows the wheels to turn at different rates of speed while the axle continues to transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing when going around corners and premature wear on internal axle parts. The ring and pinion set and the differential are contained within the carrier. The axle identification number is located on top of the differential carrier assembly or on a label on the bottom of the right half of differential carrier assembly. The wheel drive shafts are completely flexible assemblies consisting of inner and outer constant velocity CV joints protected by thermoplastic boots and connected by a wheel drive shaft.
you've got a bad axle shaft in the front and possibly a bad bearing in the hub. 4/wheel drive makes the front axle actually work. Theys no real pressure on these shafts when in 2/wheel drive.
1) there are also bushings which hold the axle assembly into the front cross member, take a look at those. 2) while you are at it, replace the front wheel bearings on both sides
Jack up the front end and put stands under it and block rear wheels. Look at axle boots and see if they are cracked. Try turning wheel back and forth sharply and see if you can hear any clicking. Problem could be outer axle joints. If the boots are cracked or you hear a clicking noise you will have to replace the axle. The axle and boot come as a complete unit. Please let me know what you find out.
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