Samsung RS2556SH Freezer left open. compressor does not come on.

if the fan is still running when you open the door , the I would be leaving that idea as a last resort
try this
get 2 taper door chocks and put one either side at the back of the fridge
push the cabinet sideways and slip one chock in a bit then do the other side
many noises are from the bottom plate that the compressor is mounted on from tapping on the floor and lifting it a bit stops the noise
the same as when you open the door the pressure on that plate is removed and so it stops hitting the floor

same as the last post...If the refrigerator wont stay on the start relay may be defective. This may have been caused by the leaking door that overloaded the system. The relay is a small box mounted to the side of the compressor and provides power to the compressor start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor get started. If its defective the compressor may run off and on (a lot) or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. Fairly easy to do and reasonable

One solution:
This can happen if door has been left open. To solve:

Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.

This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

yes it must be shut off and completely defrosted.with doors left open it usually takes about 2 days. what happened if you look at the back wall in the freezer from the inside you will see a bunch of ice and there is more behind that panel you are looking at. it froze up the coils so that no air will get through them. good luck rich

is the freezer fan running? is there frost on the rear freezer wall if so it would be a defrost issue. if no frost on freezer rear panel it would sound like a bad compressor or sealedsystem leak.

Hi,

Let's think this through a bit....
You say it is cooling but it seems too quiet.... is the compressor runing but the condenser fan is not??? that would make it cool but not cold and also make it more quiet...
If both compressor and condenser fan are running... is the evaporator fan... the one inside the freezer running? That also could cause the same problems...

Is the compressor running all of the time??? or is it cycling? if it is cycling then it could be a t-stat or sensor problem....if it is not starting properly it may be a capacitor/relay problem...

These are alll things that you can easily check yourself....

If they all checkout... then the unit may have a small refrigerant leak and just will not cool enough now to catchup from a earm condition....
To check that out you would need a tech. to attach gauges to the system and check the charge...



Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

It went into self protection mode. Just leave it closed and when the compressor cools down enough, it will start. Once the ref starts to cool, the lights and such will come back on.

All of this assumes that no failure was caused by the long run times when the door was open

The popping sound could be a direct short circuit, in which case you need to try to see where exactly the sound is coming from. You should then be able to correct it. Second thing is that it is possibly a bad starter relay and can easily be replaced. ratemeplease

I called F&P customer care when my fridge did this, and apparently 11 beeps means the compressor has failed. I hope you got someone to fix your fridge! I decided to post a solution as I couldn't find one online anywhere!

fridge is not getting cold freezer is ok