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FYI, I have had the same problem and have spoken with three different technicians including one that is supported by the LG website and all say the same thing: replace the gfci with a regular outlet, even though in my case (and probably yours) this would not be to code. If the manufacturer of the dryer is saying that the dryer should not be plugged into a gfci outlet (their words), I'm not sure there's anything that can be done about it. Mine also ran for 5 years in the gfci outlet with no problems. If you find another solution, (or can recommend any technician that takes this issue seriously) please post!
It sounds as though some component in the dryer has a high resistance short to ground. Not enough to burn it up, but enough to allow the current in the hot leg of 120VAC to be greater than the current through the neutral leg.
It is also possible that the ground is a low resistance short to ground. Have you tried to temporarily plug the dryer into a non GFI outlet (use a heavy duty extension cord)? If so, does the breaker for that circuit trip? DO NOT LEAVE THE APPLIANCE CONNECTED USING AN EXTENSION CORD! THIS IS ONLY TO TEST THE APPLICANCE FOR A HIGH RESISTANCE SHORT.
Either way, I would be suspect of the motor first, and the pilot igniter circuit 2nd. Please provide more information as to what you find in the test above.
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Hi,
The age of the pump is a big clue.
I'd suggest that you check the pump out to see if it's seized-up or become jammed by dirt & gunge.?
If you can strip it down, it might be just a matter of cleaning everything up & reassembling it again, or maybe just replacing a couple of bearings.?
Best of luck.
The circuit that supplies your washer and dryer may also have an in-line GFI outlet which may have tripped. Even though you have cycled the circuit breaker you would also have to reset the GFI outlet as well. Good luck.
Did you replace the inverter board?? It is inside the tan plastic box in the bottom of the control panel I think on the right side. That controls the power supply to a good part of the machine and drive system. Has to be a direct short somewhere to trip the breaker.
First, plug a fan or hair dryer into the plug to make sure it has power, if not, check to see if the GFI plug hasn tripped. All electrical plugs that are near water have to be on a dedicated electrical line that has a trip-breaker (GFI) built into the plug. Try unplugging the washer for several minutes to reset the electronics. Those are the only two quick fixes I can think of. If you have an electric dryer, it will have its own 220v plug and won't be affected like the washer. If the dryer is gas and is plugged into the same outlet, try unplugging the washer to reset first before you call a repairman for the washer. If you have homeowners insurance, they may cover the damage.
If it is tripping the GFI I would say you have created a short somewhere. Check that wire has not been braised, check the plug for signs of burning, check outlet for signs of burning. Plug another device into the outlet to see if something else trips the GFI. If something else trips it then you could have a bad GFI outlet. These are the basics to try first but could be a number of things beyond this.
The ground not being connected does not tirp thr gfi. The gfi senses the current between the two legs it will trip when the current returning to ground (neutral) exceeds 5mili amps. This is for personal protection. If you have a gfi circuit breaker disconnect the black wire from the breaker, if it does not trip you likely have a groung fault in the washer. If you have a dryer or other metal object that is grounded (Bonded) you may get a shock from it, also standing (barefoot) on a concrete floor may cause the same. ( bonded is a gronded conductor that attaches all metal parts of a electrical curcuit together) a hot lead goes to ground is a dead short and will trip any breaker.
I do home inspections, and this is a no-no! GFI devices are not real happy with inductive loads, such as motors and refrigerators. Generally during home inspections, we find that GFI's older than 10 yrs. have a 75% failure rate using a sophisticated tester. The 5 yr. old devices are at 50%. I'd replace that outlet with a single outlet, dedicated to the washer. If it's near a sink, then you're required to stick with the GFI. I'd just repalce it with a new one.
Good Luck!!
I ran into this problem with a washer this summer. the gfi breaker needs to be replaced. it is weak and trips easily. if you can run an extension cord to an outlet without the gfi andrun your washer, you probably will not have any issues. that is what I found with the washer this summer. when it was plugged into the gfi, itwould trip. but when I had it plugged into a regular outlet, it was fine. Joe
I have a Whirlpool Model AD$)DSR1 Dehumidifier, with similar issues. When plugged in where it was operating for three years with no problems, it would trip the gfci within 10 minutes. I have it out in the garage right now with all the covers off, and I've had it running on a heavy duty outlet for about a half hour now. The compressor is too hot to touch (ouch!), and the condenser coils are only cool, when they should be quite cold. I am ready to judge that one of two things has happened: Either the compressor is bad, or the refrigerant has leaked out of the system.
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