This works the outside lights and outside wall sockets
1) Time master is sometimes the same as Intermatic EJ351:
Copy following link to identify timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html
2) Add comment and describe timer in detail, and/or include photo of timer so expert can identify timer.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: Timer is wired correctly but not working
Could be bad timer motor. You can replace these easily. Be sure timer motor wires are on the same terminals that incomming line wires are connected to. You can find parts and info at www.intermatic.com
SOURCE: Hello. I just replaced
So you got the timer to work. Is it still working or are you still having problems with it.
SOURCE: I am replacing an in-wall timer switch that
The original timer either was a mechanical wind-up clock or it used a "power stealing" circuit to keep itself powered while it was turned on. The new timer doesn't have this feature. While the light bulb is off, it can run on a small amount of power drawn through the light bulb, but when it turns on the bulb, there is not enough voltage left to keep the switch electronics powered, so when its power supply capacitor runs out of charge, it can't keep the bulb turned on. It probably also forgets its settings.
The only (safe) way to use this model is to bring in a neutral wire. The timer should be connected as follows:
Black: connect to house black from panel (always live when breaker is on).
Red: connect to house black from light fixture.
White: connect to house neutral (white).
Green: connect to house ground (bare copper or green).
If the wires in the box come from one of the porch lights through a conduit (this seems likely; I don't think there are any other legal methods that would leave out the white wire), then it should not be too difficult to add the white wire. Tape a pull string to one end of the wires and pull them out of the conduit at the other end. Bundle a 14 gauge white wire with old wires (tape it to the pull string) and mark the black wire that goes to the light bulbs at each end so you know which one to connect to the red timer wire. Put some wire pulling lubricant on the wire bundle (it will probably pull a lot harder with the extra wire) and pull it all back into the conduit using the pull string.
Note 1: It's tempting to just push the white wire in with the others remaining in place, but it will probably jam when it runs into a place where the others twist around each other, most likely at an elbow in the conduit. That might damage the insulation of the other wires.
Note 2: 14 gauge is the typical size for a residential light circuit. Use the same size that's in there now, and be sure it is a type UL listed for residential power wiring. Look for the fine print on the original wire; you should be OK if you match that. If more than half of the conduit cross-section will be filled with wire when you add the neutral, consult a licensed electrician to be sure you won't have a problem with crowded wires overheating.
Note 3: An alternative is to use the original wires to pull in a 14-3 cable (black, red, white and ground), provided the conduit elbows have a large enough radius to let it go through. However, the jacket on this cable has considerably more friction than the insulation on wires typically run through conduits.
What happened to the original timer? Maybe we can figure out how to fix it more easily than rewiring the box. I know there is at least one two-wire electronic timer on the market, but I'll have to go over to my church and look up the brand and model. Check back after 7:30 pm CST Oct. 13, 2010.
Testimonial: "The white was tucked in the back of the box and painted over so I didn't see it. By connecting as you suggested it woks just super. Thanks"
SOURCE: Utilitech self-adjusting wall timer 0192773. I
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html
I have been testing the 0192773, and other timers, for wire and program difficulties.
Good news: your timer is wired correctly. This timer will not operated lights with incorrect wiring.
programming steps are long, but same as other programmable timers.
The 0192773 is a 7-day or sunrise/sunset timer
1) Most programmable timers will not 'work as expected' if there is a conflict in programming.
They suggest you make a schedule of times before programming
2) One of the things this timer offers are individual days -or- groups of days > for example weekend only -or- weekdays only -or- all days of week -plus- individual days. For me, it was a bit confusing keeping that straight while programming
3) Each Program has ON time and OFF time
So Program1 ON has to be set same days as Program1 OFF
4) The other difficulty was how fast the display shifted back to current time when I was programming. If I looked at the instructions for a moment, my display would change before I could catch up. So it's possible that an ON or OFF time could be missed easily.
5) Finally, if you are using the timer as a sunrise/sunset, you need to enter Sunrise or Sunset with program1 ON and program1 OFF
I think the problem is in your programs:
You can use paperclip and hold in reset button for a few seconds and start over
Or
You can press PROG button and and re-check and re-set each program.
By the way, when setting current time, I noticed the timer let you chose a year up to the year 2099. I thought that was an optimistic outlook for both operator and timer.
SOURCE: The wall timer to my outside lights says "noop"
noop means no operation.
This usually shows on older timer.
You posted under Intermatic ST01C.
Other have written to fixya with same symptoms.
CR2 battery might be bad. Replace battery.
Replace battery quickly and current time remains in memory.
Battery out of timer longer than 30 seconds, then current time and day disappear.
Programming remains inside timer forever with or without battery until timer is reset.
Others report they changed battery and timer never came back to life afterward.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#battery
Manual troubleshoot section also suggests resetting timer, and then re-programming.
Manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-st01c.pdf
To reset timer, hold down ON-OFF button and push small round reset button with paper clip.
Push reset for 3 seconds and release.
Keep holding down ON-OFF until INIT shows on display.
Release ON-OFF and wait for display to show.
If display never shows, then battery is dead or timer is bad.
ST01C comes with 1 year limited warranty.
Advantage of Intermatic battery operated timer is simple wiring, plus astronomic function (dawn-dusk).
All in-wall timers have advantages and disadvantages.
Nextag shows new ST01C sellers
http://www.nextag.com/intermatic-st01c/products-html?nxtg=90ff0a280507-C4F7FB4C58223A3F
Page also shows Intermatic EI600 astronomic timer that comes with 5 year limited warranty
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