MayTag Neptune TL washer machine keeps showing error "od" with a loud beeping sound. It has had this problem off and on (usually after every nine loads), I have been using the magnet trick up and down

SOURCE: maytag neptune washer display showing FL

fl is a over fill. clean the pump out and the sump near the pump is in the back the dran hose goes to it

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Loading Washer Noise

Hello gwatson01,
Wondering if you could rate my clarification request as a solution? I joined this forum as a owner DIY’er to help other owners. The machine is just too expensive to junk and as you found fairly easy to work on. As a forum member as you I receive no compensation for my support to other owners. Thank you in advance for your support. Rich
My solution;
I’m an owner/DIY’er of the machine. Please take a look at this post and see if your mechanical noise may be coming from underneath the tumblers, maybe some coins grinding around under the tumblers. If you think it is take a look at the service manual link in that post. It will take you thru the tumbler removal process, see if you feel comfortable with the process, the manual does not call out a #20 Torx driver is required to remove the tumbler.
If you think the grinding noise is very metallic and not muffled by a tub of water the grinding noise may be coming from the transmission/clutch area and removing the machine front vertical cover will be necessary to better sound isolate the suspect area of the machine. Do you feel OK to remove the front panel? If so see this post.
The 1st link I sent you to shows that this owner had issues after the coin removal. I would also like you try a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket. Can you let me know if that cycle runs with no noise? We can’t totally rule out an issue with the clutch/transmission components with the info supplied so far. To help you remotely diagnose this issue detail information is needed. Let’s try to sound isolate the grinding noise source location. Follow all safety rules in the Service Manual. If you don’t feel comfortable to proceed I would recommend you call in a qualified FAV6800AWW repair service for support.

SOURCE: maytag neptune washer keeps beeping

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
I have tried to work with a few folks on this issue never received feed back to resolution see this post. I feel the issue is caused by one of three possible issues.

A stuck key issue/defective Spin Cycle key making constant contact forcing the Key/LED to cycle thru the Spin Cycle settings. Under normal conditions if you press and hold the Spin Select key it will cycle thru the settings, yours has a mind of its own (defective issue).

A false signal from the Control Board for the Spin Cycle.

A corrosion path issue at the Membrane Pad ribbon cable socket connection between pins 5 and 4. See page 20 of the SM button functionality “Spin” key.

Try to verify that the spin cycle membrane key is not stuck/defective signaling the Control Board to cycle thru the spin settings. I have not experienced this issue but let’s try the Membrane Pad Test to get a start point. See the Service Manual page 15, I have modified the process to make it a bit more understandable at least for me. Make sure the two digit display is not On or Lite.
Press the off button first so there is nothing displayed in the Two Digit display of your FAV6800AW.

Now Enter / Exit Service Mode

To enter Service Mode press the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or until the control beeps. While in Service Mode, pressing the Presoak key will start a membrane switch check that verifies switch operation.

All the LEDs (except Presoak ) can be toggled or slewed by pressing the key associated with the LED or set of LEDs. Do not press the Presoak again during this test.

Press each key once and only once including the Signal Key the on side and the off side, also the UP and Down Arrow key of the LED display. All keys (including the OFF button) must be pressed within 5 minutes for this test to pass. “PA” will be displayed for five (5) seconds once all keys have been pressed and the test is completed (more like PA will be displayed for only a few seconds on my FAV6800AW). Following 10 seconds of inactivity at any point, this test will exit without any display. Let us know the results.

See my additional comment this board has message limit issues.

SOURCE: error code of "dc" on my TL Maytag Neptune

If your machine is FAV6800AW or FAV9800AW the dc/UC errors are caused by a clutch malfunction. Your machine is shutting down with those errors so your Tub Displacement Sensor is working as designed.

Fix the Clutch malfunction and you can wash a single sock or a load of blue jeans and you will not take the dc or UC unbalance errors. See this post for the fix.

Post back if you have questions or need help.

Rich

SOURCE: "od" alarm on neptune tl

Hey geonkarla637,

Good job on troubleshooting, let’s focus on the Left Hand Lid Lock. It has the dual signaling functions to allow the Machine to operate as designed. The first signaling function is “Lid is Open/Lid Closed” signaling the “OP” error code for lid is OPEN if you press the Start button at the Start of a cycle or during a pause and resume portion of a cycle and “OD” error code if the machine has not seen the lid open for three completed machine cycles your issue. The second signaling function is “Failed to Lock” the “FL” error code.

Because the Control Board programming is looking for the contact open/closure transitions at appropriate times of the wash cycle from the Magnetic Reed Relay in the left lid lock. I see no way to fool it by bypassing the magnetic reed relay in the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and have the machine work as designed.

What I would do next is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up. I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs. I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves. I wedge small paper clip ends in the case halves as I work around the tabs. Again I stress they break off in a heartbeat take it slow and no coffee for 24hrs before you begin this operation …. (:

How do the black and red wire on the reed relay look? If they look like this I would take a low wattage soldering iron fine pencile tip 25W no more than 60W iron and solder back on the broken end if that has happened. If you don’t want to deal with that you need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock .




I would also use a drop or two of WD-40 on the slide switch in that signals “Lid Is Locked”. I’m going to include a pic of my attempt to document the Left Hand Lid Lock Control Board inputs and signaling outputs. I have labeled the Pins on that lock assembly for my reference, I cannot correlate them one for one to the schematic packed in the machine console. I have measured and watched the +12VDC input and output transitions with my DVM for the Lid Is Closed and Lid is Locked on the Control Board at connector P3. If your Left Hand Lid Lock is signaling correctly out of the assembly then I would trace the +12VDC signaling back to the control board. From your previous troubleshooting you have insured there is no corrosion on the male Left Hand Lid Lock assembly and the mating plug end.


Please let me know what you find, I hope this helps; I’m a rookie owner still learning how to troubleshoot/repair the machine.

As a side note I unplugged the Right Hand Lid Lock and taped up the plug end. I would never replace that lid lock if it failed my choice; I find it helps to simplify troubleshooting.
Good Luck …………..Rich