Hello , please help me , i have a new mother board msi g41m-p26 and it stopped working. WHEN PRESS THE POWER SWITCH THERE IS NOTHING HAPENS NOTE (IF I REMOVE THE CPU 4 PINS ATX 12V POWER CONNECTOR IT POWERD UP) THE REASON WHY MY MOTHER BOARD STOPPED THE MOTHER BOARD WAS NOT INSTALLED CORRECTLY SO MY FRIEND INSTALLED A NEW WEBCAM , THE MOTHER BOARD MOVED AND I THINK A SHORTCUT HAPPEND BETWEEN THE MOTHERBOARD AND THE COMPUTER CASE. HELP ME IF THERE IS A SOLUTION OR SOME COMPOSENTS CHANGING LIKE MOSFETS OR CAPASITORS OR ANY SOLUTION PLEASE !!! .
The most likely solution is to replace any Capacitors that have blown in the onboard power circuit. Look for a Capacitor that has got a very bulging top in the region of the power connector.
thank you Michael Green for your Replay , there is no blowing or blugin capacitor , all the capacitors looks great and fine , iv tested all the mosfets around the cpu and i found some one who doesnt give the same result this one named (P0903BD), am i wrong ??
Sorry, I don't know. But for an IC to have fried from a shorted motherboard, it would have had to be a substantial contact with the case, as there is an insulating layer on the underside of most modern boards. But I have had boards with the same symptoms and it has always been a capacitor.
Okey , thank you very Michael Green , i ll try to change the capacitors and see what hapens , thank you again.
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SOURCE: Motherboard not functioning
If the power supply had a problem then it is likely that the motherboard and/or the CPU got damage from that. I would check the 12V and the 3.3V lines from the PSU.
Without more information I cannot say specifically what the problem is. You can try disconnecting everything from the motherboard except video card, CPU, and RAM to see if it would work that way. If it does then you can start connecting devices until it does not work any more then you have found the problem. If that does not work at all then unplug the video card and RAM see if anything changes (you should get a beep code without the video or RAM). If nothing changes then either the CPU or motherboard is bad and the only way that I know of to find out which one is to either try the CPU in another motherboard or try a different CPU in that motherboard.
SOURCE: Power supply Ok.But CPU fans started with seconds It's stop.
sounds to me like your mainboard is bad, i bet if you closely inspect the capacitors around the cpu one or more is bulged out or leaking
SOURCE: i installed the motherboard with the cpu 3500+
Hi,
There could be many things that could stop the board from turning on, Determining what is wrong is like detective work. What I do, is take everything off the board to start. Then add the minimum to start a board to see if it will start. That's one drive (cd or otherwise) the CPU, and one bank of memory. (that's not a required eliminate, but it helps avoid beep codes) Also, make sure you have your pin's set on the board absolutely correct, or that could be your problem to begin with. Also, if your going to load a ide drive, make sure you set your pin setting correctly on it. Now, you should get the power supply on, and the cpu. If those don't power up, it's then either one of the five elements. The CPU, Power supply, Ram, Drive, or the motherboard. The next step is to replace each one of the first four with another to see if you get any change. Also, on the drive, try a different cable to make sure it's not that, If no change, then I usually get another board that I can test the first four, and make sure that they work. If after that and you have tested all of the components and they all work, then it's save to say you have a Dead Board
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Good Luck and don't forget to leave a rating.
Thanks
Mark
Testimonial: "Thank you! the board is dead, i tried everything but nothing helped.now i'll take the board to a local service, maybe they can fix the mobo..."
SOURCE: I've got a new Gigabyte
Most motherboards now have a 24-pin power supply connector. If you haven't already found a diagram showing the pinouts of the 20- and 24-pin power plugs, here's one borrowed from a handy site:
The two plugs are essentially the same, but the 24-pin version duplicates some voltages on the extra pins. The extra pins in the larger connector were meant to provide extra current paths for voltages that see heavy loads from newer processors and motherboard circuitry. Depending on how a motherboard is designed, it might work with a 20-pin plug connected (leaving pins 11, 12, 23 and 24 empty). But typically if the board has a 24-pin connector it needs the 24-pin power supply plug.
Most power supplies have a 20-pin plug with a separate 4-pin section that fastens to it for connection to a 24-pin mobo connector. It typically has one side designed to slide onto the end of the 20-pin plug, essentially turning it into the 24-pin version. This added plug does not have a retaining clamp on its side, so you can tell it from the the 4-pin CPU power plug. The wire colors are also different. For reference, here is the processor power plug, from the same website:
New motherboard specs call for the separate processor power connector for the same reason the extra pins were added to the power supply connector: to handle the high currents needed by increasingly faster CPUs.
When the motherboard has these connectors, you need to use them all to get everything working. Hope this helps. Thanks to smspowersupply.com for the diagrams, and thank you for using Fixya.
Testimonial: "Thanx - cleared up the confusion about P1. Additional tests are pointing to a d.o.a. motherboard."
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