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Posted on Dec 05, 2012
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Broil trips circuit breaker every time

The bottom oven uses a dial control, and my husband and I sometimes forget and turn it the wrong way (toward broil) when we want to turn the oven off. Every single time, the circuit breaker trips immediately. This happens whether or not the upper oven is on. This evening I tripped it again, but this time we cannot reset the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is rather old, so I'm unsure if the breaker is bad or if this is a problem with the oven itself. Any ideas?

1 Answer

Richard Roth

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  • GE Master 9,472 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 06, 2012
Richard Roth
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I would start by replacing the breaker. They do become weak over time.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1314 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2008

SOURCE: Wall Oven No Power

yes the oven thermal fuse blew when the fan went off its also called a tco switch if you pull out the oven and take the top off there will be a tech sheet there that will give the location of the tco some are on top some are on back this can also happen if the oven is too tight in the cabinet not enough room around it to let the heat dissipate its a round metal disc with two wires on it

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Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: GE JTP56 double oven controls OK top OK bottom no heat

have you inserted the business card as described in the solutions?

Paul Davies

  • 157 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 30, 2009

SOURCE: No heat after cleaning cycle.

set clock

Greg Mills

  • 497 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 25, 2009

SOURCE: My oven is beeping with F5 and the bake element is

F5 on a GE is a loss of relay drive circut.
replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC).

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One of Broil elements have failed. Often you can visually see the damage, or you can test with a multimeter with the power turned off. Try for continuity. The failed one will be shorting to earth. The other possibility is that an end contact has melted through and is touching the case.
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After cleaning the control panel ribbon, the oven will not shut down (top and bottom ovens. Is this the thermal oven shutdown fuse that needs to be replaced? If so, how do I remove the fuse from a W

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Temperature Control Thermostat


If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board


The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

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Hi,my belling model 664 wh is tripping out just as it reaches set temp on main oven dial,i have just replaced the main oven element, any solutions I would be grateful. Thank you.

Sounds like the amperage draw of the oven is right at the breaker size. Circuit Breakers should not be loaded more than 80%. Breakers take time to trip when they are close to the limit. IF the problem started with the replacement oven element, it may be the wrong one and could be tripping the breaker by drawing too much power.

Otherwise: Wiring or breaker not sized right, maybe another load on the breaker in addition to the oven, possible bad connections causing extra amperage, or wrong the oven element made for a higher amperage oven. In rare cases the breaker might be bad, but this is not likely.

Someone experienced needs to a) identify the breaker size b) verify the wire connected is appropriated sized c) verify the oven's current requirements and d) look for bad connections.

Normally another load would not be on the oven circuit unless a diy person changed the wiring. With those items verified, a clamp on amp meter would be used to verify actual current draw when the oven is on to ensure the load is appropriate for the breaker, wiring and oven. If at this point the load is less than 80% and the breaker still trips, change the breaker.
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Stove will not turn off CHECK

Temperature Control Thermostat


If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board


The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

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Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
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If the new element is good then the next thing to check is the selector knob (COOK/BROIL) and the thermostat for the oven.

To check the thermostat, turn the selector to BROIL and turn the thermostat up until the top element begins to heat. Let it heat up a little then turn the thermostat down until it clicks off. If this works then your thermostat is working.

The problem then must be your selector control. Remove and replace (turn power off at circuit breaker box first!).

Of course, if the thermostat won't turn on the upper element either then it must be the thermostat.

There is a possibility also that a loose/broken/burned wire is causing the problem. You should check for this when you open up the control panel (after turning off the circuit breaker!).

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