Car started, drove it to a store. Started no problem again, drove about 15 miles and stopped for gas. Car doesn't start again at the pump. No clicks, full power, just silent and doesn't start. Pop started and ran fine the whole way home, no engine lights or anything. Got in the driveway and tried to start it again after shutting it off, doesn't start, no noise. Litterally all of a sudden problem, could it be a fuse? or some disconnected sensor?
Could be a number of things but may want to begin by checking wiring to starter, battery, or even the ignition switch. These components may not turn your engine light on.
SOURCE: car won't start lights and
you need a new battery or when you use another car to jump your car, you have to start the other car and accelerate it and probably you can start your car.
Because your battery is very weak.
SOURCE: Lights Flickering when turning on wipers - 2003 VW GTI
make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight.
SOURCE: Mk4 gti 1.8t cut out
it might be the e break sensor . ive heard of them causing shut downs . also check all fluid levels if your coolant is too low the sensor will shut it down lol. and i think theres a break light recall that might have something to do with it . take it in to vw if you have the means for a scan . of find someone in your area with a vag com . it can read the error codes from the computer . good luck
01 gti 1.8t blk on blk
SOURCE: Same problem
throttle is probably going out you can try to clean it but they are usually bad when the epc light is on
SOURCE: car wont start
That might be just a coincidence but maybe it did contribute to the malfunction. Usually when it warns you with that message it would be the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). This is located outside the air filter housing and has a big plastic black tube connected to it and heads towards the engines throtle body, This is sold as a whole unit not just the electrical part. Air from the air filter passes through the heated sensing element and measures the volume of air coming in. As the air passes throught the heated element cools down and send voltage readings from it temperature and the ECU uses this data. It's always best to have your car hooked up to a scan tool VAG 1552 or equivalent reading any fault codes stored in memory before replacing any parts.
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