No error codes come up on control board, fan turns on and the preheat timer runs as if all is normal. I've tested to heating elements and even swapped the upper with the lower. Heating elements from the bottom oven work in the upper oven but the elements from the upper (which previously worked) do not heat up in the lower oven. Is this a wiring issue since all of the hardware has been swapped (I did replace the thermal fuse but to no avail)?
The broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Double Oven RBD305PDB7 - Upper Oven Won't Heat
I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.
SOURCE: Ihave a whirlpool oven model gbs277pdo1 that will
this could be the timer is set to auto
this data sheet might help
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TUTORIALS
1, If the fan motor in the back of the oven is going round and
the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but there is no heat
then you will probably need a new oven element, these are generally very easy
to fit and readily available from our website these can be tested with a
electric meter.
To gain access to the element you will
have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see
the fan and element, if you
look closely at the element you will
probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however
there is no evidence of a fault but the element
is open circuit ie:
broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some
elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts
from the rear of the machine.
2, If your fan oven is getting warm but takes a very long time to
cook or is burning the food more on one side than the other, then you need to
check if your oven fan motor
is working you will
see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motor is not blowing the heat into the oven then
you need To replace the oven fan motor
is a little more
expensive and a bit more involved.
3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating
and burning everything then you will need to replace your oven thermostat
4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your oven is not working at all ie: no heat
and no fan then the chances are that someone has put the oven timer
into AUTO mode,
simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again.
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I sincerely appreciate the responses to my post but, unfortunately, they have not produced a solution to my problem. Just to reiterate, I have tested the heating elements and they are good. I have replaced the thermal fuse and tested the continuity of it and that has tested out well. I have tested the connections on the control panel and they all passed. At this point I have to believe it is a wiring issue but I am not skilled enough in this area to kow how to proceed with verifying this without buying a replacement wiring harness with no reasonable expectation of this providing a solution. Again, I appreciate what everyone on site has suggested but I am looking for additional help as they have not solved my problem to date. Thanks again to all and I will keep looking for more suggestions! Greg in GA
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