TDD 2 Kegerator clicking and not cooling?

Use an oversized AWG cord, e.g. #12, #10 AWG to avoid voltage drop in the cord. I guess each unit needs 5 amps for total of 10 amps when both run at once.
With a 14 Gage cord (0.5 ohm @ 200' wire) and with both units starting up at same time, the current (amps) draw is 60 amps (6x running current) and 1800 watts, the 1800 watts consumed by the cord, this power dissipated as heat. The 1800 divided by the 60 ( watts/amps = volts) years a voltage drop of 30 volts, at start up of the two compressor motors if at 5 amps flc (full load current). This scenario with a 14 gage, 100' cord is problem bound so a thicker wire cord is needed to keep voltage drops within 10% of the load's rated voltage. Use a 10 or 12 Gage cord or two separate cords.

That info will be posted on a back plate on the refrigerator.

And if you cannot find anything on the back or inside then hook up ammeter to the unit and measure the amps used after it has been running for about 15 minutes. Then using formula watts = amps times volts (115 in USA) you can arrive at the wattage of unit.

which fan , inside or out.. if outside condensor fan is running then it has a bad 175 capacitor or if the compressor is running then it is low on refrigerant. if the cond fan is not running then check thermostat.. you can do this by connecting the two wires together.. another way to check the compressor, cond fan is to reach under and unplug the wires going to comptessor and plug into a 12ga extention cord.

no use a Ranco p# A12-700 make sure the capillary is in the coilto sense the temp and set it to 1.5 on the knob. any colder and it could get too cold . you may be able to set it at 2 but be careful. it is a constant cut in at 37 degrees coil temp. the box temp will drop to usually to 28 or 29 at cut out.

Depends on what part you are looking for. I use condenser motors, evaporator motors, thermostats, and even compressors and capillary tubes that I sometimes get at local suppliers. If you're looking for gaskets, hinges, panels, tap heads or something like that it may be easier to get from True.

Usually the frame getting hot is a sign that either the condenser grill is dirty or blocked or not getting enough air flow around it; or the condenser fan is not working or maybe even the compressor being low on freon.

I would suggest you start with a thorough cleaning, then check the fan and make sure it is working.

Since you said it cooled down quickly, I wouldn't think it was the compressor freon level. More likely dirty condenser grill or where you put it. I have might on 4" x 4" to get it off the ground for better air flow and ease of cleaning. It must work because I have had it since 1983 and never had to do more than clean the grill on it.

Here is semi hermetic Copeland video.

This freezer uses a 3/4 hp 115 volt compressor

Why not get a Supco 3 n 1

Replacement looks like it would be a fasco K612... the only difference is the 3000 rpm vs. 3200 rpm.