Basket spins terribly uneven.

Hi,

It sounds like the spin basket rear support is loose. The support is part of the spin basket & does not come separately. This type of repair will more than likely need the spin basket replaced & possibly the outer tub also. It will cost you $200-300 to replace the assembly.

Hope this helps.
Shane

Sometimes a spring comes loose (from a BAD out of balance previously!)
Can you pull the machine away from the wall, and remove the back cover?
(Unplug the machine from the wall electric outlet first-- OK?)

While someone else moves the basket (topside) from side to side-- can you shine a flashight around the support mechanism underneath?-- Can you see how the basket is supported as it moves?

Can you see the braces, and supports, and how they attach with springs at key locations?-- maybe 4 or 8 locations? -- Do you see springs missing, or holes loose and sloppy?-- or a brace broke, or disconnected from solid supports?

By design, the whole mechanism must be suspended in tension.

Has the machine always had this problem, or just recently?

Tell us more

Mack B

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24902200&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

YES> There are shocks and springs. The springs hold it up and control motion and the shocks absorb the movement and stabilize the basket. Sounds like you may have broken shock.

The tub may be off balance.
Servicing the Tub and Agitator

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.
The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.

I believe this is the direct drive model. Your clutch is slipping. There is a quick easy fix available that I have used in the past. Remove cabinet from washer. Make sure you know the easy way to do this... 2 screws on top back of washer and 2 holding control panel. cabinet tips toward from of unit and off. Real easy... Remove wire harness from motor under basket. Remove 3 screws holding motor to basket. Remove agitator inside basket. 1 screw holds it in place. Remove entire motor and shaft from unit. Clutch is attached to shaft on top of motor. Pinch spring to remove clean everything with alcohol. Insert #10 washer between cup and spring to give a little more tension. Replace and viola.... all should work well.

Hello skull1829 ,

Was the Clutch/One-way roller bearing changed out for dc/UC errors in your FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW?

If you start a Spin Only Cycle with an empty wash basket will the wash basket spin up CCW and complete the cycle? Lift the washer top from the base a few inches to observe the wash basket CCW rotation in spin cycle. If the clutch spring is broken or end pins of spring aren't seated the tumblers will rotate and the wash basket will rotate slowly CCW.


IF the wash basket won't spin up can you pull the front cover off and insure the motor will rotate the clutch pulley CCW in a Spin Only Cycle? Let’s try these few basic tests and get some feedback for troubleshooting.

Rich

Hey Joe,
Let’s check to see if the wash basket will rotate CCW in Spin Only Cycle with no clothes in the wash basket
1. Open the lid and rotate the wash basket by hand Counter Clockwise, CCW. The wash basket should rotate freely with no restriction. The wash basket will not rotate Clockwise, CW by hand.

2. Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. Raise the top of the machine to observe the wash basket and tumbler action described in step 3. (See page 33 of the Service Manual for putty knife insertion point).

3. With the top raised start a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket, observe the wash basket it should begin to rotate CCW does it?. Watch the tumblers, they should not rotate in spin cycle (maybe ½ turn at the start of spin cycle and that’s all). If the tumblers rotate while the wash basket is rotating you have a clutch malfunction. If the basket does spin CCW and the tumblers are rotating then you have a broken clutch spring. Let do those checks and observations and see what the next troubleshooting steps will be. Rich

Mike, Sorry to hear that, is there any water around the clutch pulley?  With the front panel removed and you put the washer in a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket.  View the Clutch pulley turning CCW and see if is turning true with no wobble? Mine spun off twice before I got it seated properly, and it was in wobble mode until I got it seated properly.   With the water leak issue maybe you can view with the front panel off and a partial fill the leak source. You can always do a quick tub pump out in service mode. As you know unplug the 120VAC to the machine before you poke around in there.  Do you still have the original clutch?  Did you remove the plastic cover and inspect the roller bearings, clutch spring and coupler? Good luck and let’s see what you find. Rich

This is a repeat, but maybe the same result.  Remove the front cover (usually two clips between the top and the front, move it around) and check each of the springs that hold the unit to the base.  Have found that just one spring would cause a out-of-balance condition.  When you open the lid, does the basket seem to be leaning one way or the other?  If so, look on the side that shows more than the other.  Also, reach in and grab the inner basket to see if it seems loose.  Have had the basket drive mount break halfway through and caused it to roll really bad.  Let me know what you find out, or if you need futher help.  Jim