GE Refrigerator side by side does not operate

As per Ray,...most likely. I would measure the width of the space that the new fridge will be going into though before buying just in case.

i have the exact same question. where is the answer?

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

You will have to check the continuity of the defrost system. You can check this by unplugging refrigerator, and testing the circuit from the main control board behind the refrigerator. If the circuit is not compromised, the problem is likely with the control board itself. If the circuit is not intact, you will have to open up the freezer and test all the individual defrost components. There are thermostats and thermistors that need to be tested in cold conditions, in other words, you will have to test them while there is frost on the evaporator. You can however test the defrost heater with or without frost on the evaporator.

If you have further questions, visit my website and send me a question. www.FixMyFridge.net

On this particular model the fan and all operations are controlled by the main board on the back of your Refrigerator. This is part number wr55x10942. Less than $200.00 and not hard to change out.

Is it still cooling? I had an issue where there was a clicking noise from the back panel and the fridge did not cool. Pulling off the panel the noise seemed to from a box on the circuit board. Turns out there was a problem with the controler board and after some research I found that the board was covered under a recall. GE ended up sending a guy out to replace the board at no charge. Pretty cool being that if was after the warranty had expired; but I guess it makes sence since there was a recall. Good luck.

At the bottom of the freezer door ( remove the kick plate ) , there will be a water line . Follow this line , about 6 " to a connector . Push in on the white ring and pull out the line , at the same time . Activate the water dispensor pad and see if water flows from the line under the refrig . If it does , then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . If no water comes from the line under the refrig , while activating the pad , then replace the water valve , behind the refrig , the piece the wall water line connects to on the refrig .

I had the same problem back in March. First the water and ice dispensers stopped working, then the clicking started and the compressor wouldn't turn on. I replaced the circuit board and everything started working again, until today. This is a very common problem with the circuit board on these refrigerators. Do a search for "GE circuit board" and you'll see what I mean. GE issued a service bulletin to its technicians that this service should be provided free of charge, and anyone who already paid to have the circuit board replaced will be reimbursed. I wish I would've known about it 6 months ago. I will be calling GE Consumer Affairs on Monday to get this resolved.

hdrubinpe Even if GE had denied the excessive noise issue, they definitely can not denied wrong temperature. Milk must stay in good condition till the expiration date on a bottle. Call GE for service. Gendos...post back