Front Right Large Burner Wouldn't Boil, Now won't heat at all

Steve Allison

• 5569 Answers
• Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: Replacing oven burner element, the lower element, for a GE stove

> (I think it is 50 watts or volts??)
Most electric ranges are supplied with 220 volts - this is, especially at 60 Hz, deadly. You were lucky this time.
If the wires are not welded onto the element contacts, they might be so-called 'quick-disconnects' that pull straight off of blades that are part of the elelment.  
You probably haven't hurt the range with the momentary short circuit since the chassis of the range is connected to neutral or ground so you just gave your breaker a workout. BTW, I have had to replace late breakers after they tripped. They wouldn't stay reset any more even after the problem was removed from the circuit. Don't be surprised if yours doesn't stay reset; it may not be a fault causing it. 

SOURCE: There is heat, but not nearrrrrly what it should be

That is what I would do. Be sure to remove the power plug before doing any kind of work on the elements or wiring. If the element is a 'plug-in' device, the repair is simple. But if the element connections are buried in the oven back, it requires more careful work. Hope this helps!

SOURCE: WE have a GE Stove top Range. The burners aren't

If you have power to the stove as in the oven light works and the clock works but the burners and oven will not work you only have 120 volts coming to the stove. The stove requires 240 volts for the burners and oven to work. Check the service panel for a blown fuse. There will be 2 fuses in the fuse holder. One of them is blown. If that is not the case then one of the wires has come loose either in the service panel or in the outlet behind the stove. Use a multimeter to check the input voltage at the outlet.