Infinity Entra Sub 150 no sound or power

Best to start at the beginning. You have it connected properly? Are you using the line level, direct or speaker inputs? What output on your receiver are you using?
Have you adjusted the volume control?
If you have everything correct, are you the original owner? It's an older model so if you are the original owner what happened when it stopped working? Noises, fade out, just wouldn't turn on one day.

Are you capable of doing some minor electrical work? Can you read a schematic? Can you recognise electrical parts? If the answer to any of these last three questions is no, you need to take it to someone that has the ability to do electrical repairs. If the answer to all three is yes you can fix this yourself.

For a powered subwoofer:

Connect to the receiver Sub line out

• Use a shielded cable and not wire

No speaker spontaneously makes popping noises unless it is driven so hard the mechanical parts are crashing into each other. The amp is probably stressing out due to heat, which would explain the delayed onset of the symptom and its disappearance after a cooldown.

Perhaps you are overdriving it??

Please read the article here and also your owner manual:
http://lcdrepair.us/E228WFPc-inverter-power.html

At my home, I got more bass when it is in the corner of the room.

Maybe if you described the setup with exact model numbers for everything involved we might be able to answer with specifics.

You could poke around her for the Entra Manual for YOUR model.

http://manuals.harman.com/INF/Hom/Owner's%20Manual/

What they do NOT explicitly tell you is that the amp in the sub is not for your other speakers running off it's Speaker Level outputs. They're just there as a pass-through if you use Speaker Level from your own amp.

Line Level (RCA) IN to the sub will NOT pass anything out those Speaker level outputs.

Hi,

One or more of the DC to DC outputs might be bad. Check the
/- 54v on the main PCB and the /-15v on the switching controller PCB.
Losing one side of the 15v will cause the limit comparator to rail and force the servo protection, even with no input signal.

invest in a multi meter if you want to test or diy electronics and as to repair or replace that would be up to what is wrong

The hum can be from the power supply not properly filtering, and or the output stage also has a short.

There is the chance that the speaker driver coil is now burned, or the power supply is now dead. If ther output stage is shorted and was putting DC on to the speaker cone, this will burn it very easily.

You should sent the unit out and have it serviced, unless you are properly trained, have the service and engineering manuals, and the test equipment to follow up on a proper repair and calibration.

Jerry G.

I'm having the same issue as pdoug: Sub rumbles in test mode, doesn't produce sound otherwise. Which makes me suspect it's the receiver itself -- the filter (or whatever) it is that should be separating the bass signal and sending it to the sub is not working. At least that's my guess.

Either way... this sucks.

if this is ao powered sub, that plugs into the wall, there should be no problems, if it is powered solely by the reciever it may work fine but be sure you dont exceed amperage on the subwoofer.