Look at this video.
Richard, Is it necessary to always purchase a new pump when replacing the belt?
no, the video shows that but just pay attention to the belt segment.
Mr. Roth, My washer is good as new!! Although I did have to replace the pump as it was clearly visible it was damaged too. I also had to clean the rust off of the shaft so that the pump would even go back on. It was very apparent it had been leaking long before the belt had broke. Anyway thanks so much for your help!!
I am so glad I was able to help you. That is why I joined FixYa!
Richard, Same washer different issue. Wont agitate, spin or drain but the motor is humming?
Turns out is was the belt.
Can you use a automotive belt for this model ?
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SOURCE: SAV205DAWW Maytag Washer Belt Replacement Instructions
This is specifically for a Maytag Legacy SAV515DAWW, but may apply to the whole Legacy line.
There is only one drive belt on this washer and it is not accessible directly from the bottom as a pan forms the bottom of the case. All work can be performed through the bottom front panel, once it is removed.
Before one starts, an overview is helpful. The motor for the washer is bounted just behind the access panel. Attached to the shaft at the motor bottom is the drive pully for the drum belt, along with the belt tensioning pully and spring. Below that is the pump assembly attached by three screws in the shafts, which are accessible only from the bottom. What you must do, is remove the pump by unfastening four hex-head bolts, then rotate the motor and pump assembly bottom upwards to the front, so the bottom of the shafts containing the torx head screws fastening the pump are accessible.
While everything is all together it is helpful to notice that the far support for the pump is in almost a direct line with the motor shaft and the tum pully shaft. When you reassemble the components, this vertical pump support must go between the belt. As you face the washer, the tensioning pully will ride on the outside of the right side of the belt.
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Pull it out from the wall, so it may be tilted back at about a 45 degree angle and will not fall foreward.
3 Remove the two hex head screws on the right and left bottom front of the washer. The panel should lift out from the bottom, Two pins hold the top of the panel in.
4. Examine the mechanism as described above.
5. Detach (Unhook) the tensioning pulley spring from the front of the bracket above the pump..
It is not necessary to remove any of the hoses. There is adequate flexibility and slack for replacing the belt.
6. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the galvanized motor bracket to the frame.
7. Rotate the motor back, so the pump bottom faces the front.
8. Remove the three torx head screws in the pump support arms.
9. Detach the pump from the motor. Gently pry it off or gently strike the body of the pump away from the motor with a soft faced mallet.
10. Place the new belt on the motor pully and reinstall the pump, so the leg closes to the tub pulley is inside the two sides of the belt. Reinstall the pump screws in the plastic shafts.
11. Reinstall the motor and fasten the bolts.
12. Make sure the tensioning pulley is to your right of the belt and then side your hands to the rear and slip the belt under the drum pulley and completely around it.
13 Feed the belt onto the drum pulley. I did this by reaching back with my left hand and feeding the belt, coming from the motor pulley, into the drum pulley, then slowly rotating the right side of the drum to me with my right hand.
14 Check to ensure the tensioning pulley is to the right of the belts, then reattach the spring, so the pulley forces the righthand belt to the left.
15. Set the washer upright, open the lid and rotate the drum around twice using your hands. This will help seat the belt on the pulleys and ensure the drum is not stuck.
16. Make sure the cycle switch is pulled out (set to off) and plug the power in.
17. Set on a wash cycle and looking in the bottom , check for proper operation. If the motor appears to be stalling, immediately turn the unit off. Rotate to tub some more by hand and test for operation. If it still doesn't work, see help, your problem is more than just a belt!
18. If everything seems to work, toss in a test load of laundry and pat yourself on the back for being able to save some money!
SOURCE: how to change belt on
hi. thanks for the question. pull washer away from the wall. tip back and lean it to the wall .belts are underneath. nice and easy. thanks the appliance doc . please rate me
SOURCE: maytag washer repair
I had the repair guys out 3 months ago maytag paid for labor I paid $150 for seal and bearings, tub froze and belt broke. the tub now is making the loud screams that others complain about I contacted maytag and reapir servce and talked with the tech. this machine is a piece of S$%^ the seal fails on a regular basis and bearings get water in them. I just missed my 3 month waranty and will not pay for that repair again. people at home depot agree that this machine is trouble. the machine must be taken completely down from the top to replace the bearings and or the belt. the tub must be removed. If you call maytag they will pay for the labor but not the parts.
SOURCE: spin does not work
Can you turn the drum by hand ?, if not then the bearings are siezing up
If you can , when the belt was fitted was it tensioned so that there was about half an inch of play on the longest side of the belt
SOURCE: Maytag Model...SAV205DAWW leaking water at bottom
there could be 2 things that i know of
first one is that someone bended the door to much and the joint's are eather lose or out of place
the second thing is that the door sealing rubber is out of place, you need to putt it back to place
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