If using a cable or sat box try a DVD etc when set cold, a box can cause lockup issues via signal.
Not a color wheel is correct, more likely a DMD which is rather pricy and almost as much as the entire light engine which comes with it.
Sorry to say that this problem happens even when a DVD player is the signal source. What is puzzling is that when the set has had time to warm up, it then acts perfectly fine as long as it is left on. If turned off, but not allowed to cool down, it will come back on and work right, but if allowed to cool down, it begins the problem again.
Hi Sonny Berry---thank you for your input. There are no blinking lights at this point, BUT I could DEFINITELY make use of the training manual and it's trouble shooting breakdowns. PLEASE DO post the link for that! Thanks!
Thank you PegBox60965, however the set is firing up just fine, and the bulb seems to be working correctly--since it does come on fine, I'm pretty certain the door is closed well. Thank you though.
Thank you electroman2--I will check to make sure the lamp cover switch, and that it is not extended beyond its range.
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SOURCE: Samsung 61" DLP 3 Blinking lights.
all 3 lights blinking means lamp has a fault the service manual says replace the lamp. If you need the service training manual for that model let me know and I will post the link as the training manual has excellent trouble shooting breakdowns for that model DLP
SOURCE: 3 blinking lights - Samsung DLP
Remove your new bulb and examine the connector carefully. The inexpensive replacement bulbs tend to arc and ruin your $700 ballast; sad to say. If everything looks good, make sure the interlock switch on the bulb cover opening is engaging. It won't fire up if it thinks that door is open.
SOURCE: Samsung DLP HL-P5063W. . .no lamp!
Remove the rear cover and check the lamp cover switch. Earlier versions used a black plastic switch holder that may break due to improper assembly. The part number for the holder is BP61-01240A. Newer versions use a metal tab attached to the engine. In this case, improper assembly may cause the lamp cover switch to be extended past its range, either breaking the switch or causing it to have an open contact. Replace the switch with BP91-01231A.
Note that in these models, when reinstalling the rear cover, it is best to remove the lamp cover first, install the rear cover, then install the lamp cover. This will make sure that the lamp switch is properly engaged.
SOURCE: samsung 46'' dlp
This is most likely your Digital Processor Module. So far most all makes are selling them as a complete Light Engine Assembly which includes the light tunnel, digital module and color wheel. They are rather expensive, some are in the $800.00 range, a few more dollars and you have a new set.
SOURCE: Lamp Light still on after replacement
First, A common mistake made is when you insert the orange ribbon cable from the Color Wheel into the DMD bd. To correctly insert the Ribbon Cable you need to look at both sides. You will see a shiny silver side and a dull black/orange side. You must insert the shiny silver side AWAY from the Color Wheel or towards the rear of the set. Now for the Ballast. When you power up the tv,Do you hear a short Buzzing sound? If you do that means that the Ballast is trying to fire up the Lamp and is working. Next, do you hear the Color Wheel spin up? If you do not then you have installed the Color Wheel incorrectly and you need to repeat the installation while making sure that you hold the rubber gasket in perfect place or else it won,t work. Chances are the gasket is in the wrong position and is binding the Glass Wheel. The Ballast is on the right side of the engine and on top of the Lamp Housing. You will see two RED High Voltage wires coming out of one end. Don't worry, there is no stored voltage in the ballast so you won't get a shock providing you have unplugged the tv from the outlet. That is the first step before you change any parts any way. Listen for the correct start sequence. With the rear backing off and the Safety Interlock Switch is being held in the up position, turn on the set. First sound you hear is a clicking which is the power on relay engageing. Then you will hear the fans turn on and then the Color Wheel spin up. Once the Color Wheel spins up and comes to full RPM then the Exciter on the Ballast will Buzz for less than half a second and then the Lamp should light up. Now if you have installed the correct Lamp and correctly installed the Color Wheel and you either are holding up the Interlock Switch or have reinstalled the rear cover and tightened all of the screws you should have a working tv.
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Actually timing the unit it took a full 25 minutes to resolve the flickering and partial freeze frames (horizontally) after initial start up, while scrolling through 3 different input sources: coax, DVI, and HDMI--it "liked" HDMI best, though still would not fully resolve for 25 minutes with all inputs exhibiting flickering, partial horizontal freeze frames, and a horizontal line across the screen 1/2 way or so. After the warm up, can eventually get a stable clear picture on each input
Virtually certain it is not the color wheel... but rather possibly the tuner circuit board?
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