My Frigidare Affinity front load washer doesn't pump water on the Normal cycle.

SOURCE: Frigidaire front load washer wont high spin

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

SOURCE: Won't spin after wash cycle or rinse cycle

CHECK THE FOLLOWING---


1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).

2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.

SOURCE: Kenmore Front Load Washer, 417.44082400, will not

Hi. this is a failed timer device. simply replacing the timer control module will eliminate these issues you are having.

SOURCE: Affinity ATF7000 washer high speed spin not

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old
man who has been making his own repairs for about
50 years. Therefore the washer or dryer ID doesn't
mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a
schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and
discovered that more than 4,700 people were asking
for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer
repair of my own and found an excellent video which
showed me how to take my machine apart. This
video made it possible for me to do my own repair. I
was so impressed with the video that when I saw all
these people needing help, I wanted to tell them
about it. If you have a top loader (washer) of the
direct drive type, this video might be a Godsend for
you. If you look at the back of your washer and the
panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove)
chances are you have a direct drive and this video
is just what you need. You can see this video at
www.acmehowto.com You will probably need
more help in determining what the problem is and
how to fix it. If your repair problem is a washer or
dryer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com
where they have very good trouble shooting and
repair information on most washers and dryers.
I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry
about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good
luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my
advice on fixya.

SOURCE: I have a frigidaire affinity front loader washer

There is an auxiliary switch in the door lock and switch assembly that is activated at the end of the wash cycle for the machine to advance to the spin cycle. This is a safety feature to prevent the door from opening during the spin cycle and the machine will not spin unless the switch is activated. The machine works except advancing to the spin cycle and this signifies that the auxiliary switch cannot be activated and the door lock and switch assembly is faulty. Replaced the door lock and switch assembly (part #131763202) to address the issue.

Disconnect power to the machine. Open the washer door then look for the retaining hoop securing the door seal around the lip of the door opening. Stretch the retainer spring of the door seal retaining hoop then remove it.


Carefully peel off part of the door seal from the lip of the door opening near the door lock and switch assembly. Remove enough of the door seal to gain access to the door lock and switch assembly.


Remove the screws securing the door lock and switch assembly to the front panel. Once the screws are removed, lift the door lock and switch assembly then pull it away from the front panel.


Take the door lock and switch assembly out of the machine. Disconnect the electrical connections then connect it to the new door lock and switch assembly.


Put the new door lock and switch assembly back into position in the front panel and secure it with the securing screws.

Properly put the eased part of the door seal back over the lip of the door opening then secure it with the retaining hoop.