Need plastic plug for through hull fitting, bottom of kmv 528 boat

Hey Joe,
Wow.. where to start.. there are so many things that will cause the issue you are describing.What type of electronics do you have? Does this happen at all speeds? Where is the transducer mounted? I need more info about when it stops reading.
1.Wrong setting on the unit
2 Bad transducer
3 Bad transducer mounting (either inside the hull or outside the hull.)
4. (In hull) Turbulence going under the boat (mine quits reading at about 55 mph @ half trim...the boat is lifting so much it causes air pockets so the transducer loses contact with the water)
5. (Outside hull) Turbulence around the bottom of the boat where the transducer meets the water.
Good luck,, when you get the info.. reply to me..

This is what the manual says:
The StructureScan transducer can be mounted on the transom,
jackplate, step or directly to your boat's hull.
When mounting it directly to the hull, you must purchase a high-
quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant/adhesive
compound.

Aluminum boats are easier to maintain, will last longer than fiberglass, and are easier to repair. You can also bump into things without causing damage like you would to a fiberglass hull.

The only real advantages to fiberglass are that it looks better due to the gelcoat finish, providing that it is maintained, they also feel more solid in the water due to the extra weight, and they tend to ride better and are quieter than an aluminum hull.

One other consideration is whether you will operate it in fresh water or salt water. Salt water can lead to corrosion problems on an aluminum hull if you leave it in the water. Fiberglass doesn't have that problem, but you can have a problem with blistering if you leave a fiberglass boat in the water for long periods, especially if you don't use a bottom coat of some sort.

If you do opt for an aluminum boat in salt water, just make sure that you spray it down with fresh water and wipe it down with a soft towel whenever you take it out of the water. This is actually a good practice for any boat, aluminum or fiberglass.

Crosslink = good luck
Linear plastic is simple: cut a sliver from your cockpit and try to weld it back with a heat gun, soldering iron or old skiwax iron, do not use open flame as this will produce soot.

There are many sources of linear plastic, use the above system to ensure compatibility of plastics.
When welding try to melt the two plastics together, I normally spin the plastic "welding rod" thereby mixing old and new material into a good composite of both.

Video is my son's Rockstar, we welded a bow protector because Jackson linear plastics cannot compare to any other boats I have paddled in thirty years. Jackson's paddle well and my son loves his boat, but as his technician it sucks.


Google "keelguard" this product may help someone.
https://www.keelguard.com/keelguard.html

BTW an old iron works great on linears to smooth out cuts or nicks. Boiling hot water will help pop dents out!

there are two kinds or transducers out there on the market --- some that can be mounted inside the hull and others that need to be mounted on the outside of the hull, the instruction manual should indicate which transducer you have. AND YES the transducer will only work when you are on the water --- the readings on land are no good and it will not work. install it on the boat and then test the unit on the water. BUT if you do want to test the unit before you install it to the boat you can always take the boat out to a lake ( or wherever ' on the water ' ) and mount the transducer to a long dowel or stick and hang it over the edge of the boat and this will work fine for testing.
' fish on and have fun '

c...

Hi!

This transducer requires a hole to be drilled in the bottom of the hull and the unit installed from the outside, using a caulk/adhesive such as 3M 4200 or 5200. Nice choice. Furuno is a good manufacturer!

Hope this helps!

It depends on the material of the hull. If it is Fiberglass then buy a small auto or boat repair fibreglass kit and follow instructions in the kit.
. If it is one of the engineering thermoplastics like High density Polyethylene ABS or Polypropylene I would try and find somone who can weld it with the appropriate material. This would be done by carefully shaping the plastic away from the crack to form a "V" shaped recess and then filling the gap with the appropriate filler rod usually using a hot air blower designed for the job.

Hello Keneth,
Is The transducer In Side the Hull Or Mounted On The Transom?
If Inside Remove It And Re Fit It Using Epoxy Glue Ensuring No Air Pocket Between transducer And Hull.
If transom Mounted Replace Transducer.
Hope this Helps
Gordy

Its purpose is when you stop the boat it fills with water. The boat is built light in weight to get better peformance,the bad part is that it floats like a cork when you stop.To allow these ballast tanks to fill with water when you stop,creates a stable and solid hull that reduces wave reaction.Once you take off,it all drains out.It slows initial acceleration but once drained,you get the best of both worlds.Many larger and expensive boats use this same principal to get the same result.100 ft boats may take in as much as 10000 gallons.It dulls the affect of the waves.Hope this helps

Unplugged water tube, cracked water tube, bad drive shaft hull seal, hole/crack in the hull, cracked water box, broken exhaust jacket water seal, water tubes plugged in incorrectly, no cap on flush kit, broken fitting on motor,etc. Dry out the boat take off the seat and place it in the water and look to see where the water is coming into the hull.