When Amp is powered on by remote lead, red LED comes on

Reset router. There are two resets. A simple push reboots and holding it in clears all custom settings. Try the first.

This is a quick fix and usually does it. Test with network cable and work your way backwards to modem if you still have problems.

Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.

Your amp could be in protection mode! Sometimes turning up to high or wires touching will put in protection mode! It will have to be unplugged for a day or two to drain all power out of the memory. Leave accessorie/ignition wire hooked up, just not power and ground wiring. It should reset itself.

Shorting the two leads will work but don't keep the two wires together. They are not ment to stay connected. Consider replacing your cases ATX power switch. Take a look at the link provided for a new switch;
http://www.cables4computer.com/Cases_and_Enclosures/Mid-Tower_PC-Cases_ATX_Push_Button_Power_Switch.html

The green LED on the motherboard means the board is in "Stand by mode". This green LED uses 5V DC to light the LED. After replacing your PS back into your system it may function just fine.

Good luck.
Mike

remote wire/ fuse possible? have you checked?
traced all voltage?take and disconnect remote wire from amp and make short wire from remote to 12v if green light works then u may have bad remote wire or blown fuse.

The power supply (AC adapter) is bad. It has enough power to light the red LED, but not enough to power the TV.http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=12+volt+5+amp+power+supply&_sacat=See-All-Categories

yes but you have to open the tv

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.

The following page can help you troubleshoot the problem if you want to try to repair it yourself.

Basic Amplifier Repair

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?

To my understanding,the first 30 seconds is a test mode when the blinder will react to a tv remote,after wards the light will remain green until a true laser attack.