Dryer tumbler for a short time then shuts off,will not run a full cycle like it stuck

Tumbler and fan may be shutting off if element does not come on check permissive circuit

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

GOD IS STILL GOOD !!!!

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Hay Donald , sounds like the relay on your control board is stuck closed .replace control board, good luck APPLIANCES R EN

it is proberly lint stuck around the motor and fan resticting air flow to the motor and the motor is shutting down because it is to hot vac out around the motor and inside the cabinet

If a dryer is not working at all that's not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down.

your tumbler is sticking and needs to have the rollers and skid plates replaced

hi,if you belt runs blower and tumbler,it could be lose belt,or worn out. the blower creates draft in dryer,and tumbler to fluff up. if the speed of tumbler or blower is not rite it will take long time to dry.and the nosie is the belt sliping.

You have 3 thermostats. By the description of the problem it sounds like it needs a new high limit thermostat. All 3 thermostats and the heating coil can be checked with an ohm meter. Also check the ground on the heating coil. It could be grounding it's self out.

On auto dry cycles, the cycle is controlled by moisture sensing bars located on either the rear or front bulkhead, ( visible inside dryer ) if the moisture sensor bars are shorted together (normally by wet clothing) the dryer will continue to run. If the dryer continues to run when the clothes are plenty dry, check and see if there is anything stuck between the sensor bars, (sometimes a metal sequin will cause this) or see if they are damaged. If not, you may have a problem with a timer contact, if the timer advances and stops moving at the same spot each time, I would suspect the timer. If this is an EvenHeat dryer, examine the control board located to the right of the timer in the control panel, for any burned components. Hope this helps.