Bearing noisy in GW711 7.5Kg washing machine is it hard to replace

SOURCE: LG WM-1280 DD front loading washing machine

When the unit is off, open the door and spin the drum, does the noise occur? If the answer is no then there is nothing wrong with the bearings. Chances are the hall sensor on the motor is on the way out. Call for service and ask them to replace it. Make sure you are using a "HE" branded detergent,,,, less is best.

Sgt 48

SOURCE: replace washing machine bearings

It is a very involved process with the tank having to be extracted form chassis. There is really no step by step instructions for this, but most reports say it is not economical to do this yourself. There may even be restrictions in your zip code. You should hire a technition to do this and the job takes about 2 hours.

I hope I was able to fixya problem and I wish you the best with this.

SOURCE: how do i repalce bearings in my washing machine

I'm not the technician, but I ever "underestimated" the load after I opened the back-case. I figure it out, it's so easy, which was Not. I agreed it's not a novice work, you must be very careful for every details. This is not as simple as it seems.

This was according to my experience, because I had my experiences for two different Electroluc generations. Technically, they're similar.

TOOLS:
+/- screwdriver,
spanners of 7, 8, 10, 12 and 17 (mm),
a set of "L" spanner (hexagon-spanner),
a chisel (dull one) around 1/2 meter and 1cm thickness,
rope (make sure it's a strong and thick one) -or- chain-lifter is better,
duct tape for paper-usage (usually yellow one) + a marker,
hammer (medium to big size),
a sharp screwdriver (thickness=3-4 cm),
---rest tools are provided, in case if you need so.

How to start:

Step One - Preparation
Unplug the electricity-plug. Unplug the hose where water comes in. Unplug the water-dump hose. Unplug the ground cable. Move the machine to an adequate space.

Step Two - Opening Back Case
This is easier part, 2 bolts on right/left bottom were Electroluc specialties, usually covered by white caps. It's very easy to detect. Rest, unbolt all bolts at back-case.
Once they're all loosen, remove upper case by pushing to the front and lift it up.
Unscrew the bolt holding the back-case at the upper chassis-bone, there were 4 of them. Then open the case by using a gently force to loosen it from the chassis. You will notice the drum now.

Step Three - Removing dynamo
First, you have to open the bolt holding center of the drum.
Remove the drive belt by slowly releasing it from the pulley (wheel).
Remove the wheel by rotating each angle and use gently pull, don't harsh in pulling it out, rotate with each pulling power, ---or it will be torn apart, because the wheel is fragile and lame.
You're done with the drum for this step, next is the dynamo.

Dynamo:
First unplug the cables that were attached on it, mark each slot/cables with duct tape and write down for each slot. This is for easy re-installment for future set-up.
There are 4 bolts that hold the dynamo. Before that put a cushion for safety, so the dynamo won't fall down and we just want to make sure there will be no damage with the dynamo.
If you have a T-spanner, that would make the job faster, loosen a bit and thrust gently hand-stroke for each rotating, do this again fairly with same stroke for each bolt. Once the dynamo is loosen, put it on safe place.

Step Four - Miscellaneous
In my experience, there were 3 main hoses that were connected to the drum. The jet (upper), the soap (nearby above on rear drum), and the coin (below and connected to finding-thing tank).

Before you take out the below one, unplug that two hoses that connected to round-stuff. The hard one is the below one, it takes some time, due to the limited space it has and how smart you use your tool under such condition.

Unplug the mass-cable (usually green-yellow one) that connected to the drum, mark with duct tape where it goes.

There will a cable-terminal box on the left bottom, lift it from the stand, this is just for safety. We don't want if unconditionally accident, like drum fall accidentally and may damage that stuff. Because that one would be the first impact. Hence, anything that you see possibly had a chance for such damage, I advice to remove it.

Unplug the cable that attached to the drum, mark with duct tape. There's one cable (red one) that needed to be cut apart, don't worry it's ground cable, you may attach and isolate it back later.

Step Five - Suspension and Drum Unit Removal
Before anything, make sure you put a safety-cushion on below of the drum, because we're going to do the vital part. Each suspension had 2 plastic bolts, up and below. We need only to remove the upper bolt. Jolt using the screwdriver for the snap, and knock gently it out. Do the same with the other suspension. After this, put the suspension far away from the drum.

Spring:
This is the tricky part, if you get used to deal with spring releasing. It won't any major problem for you. The trick is, use the rope and circle the upper jaw, make sure you tie the rope well. Use the chisel (or long shaft), do this like you are going to pull a nail out method. Be very careful, check if the cushion is in proper place for each spring releasing. We don't want to harm the below stuff with falling-drum occasion.

The drum is heavy. Make sure you have a good stamina to take it out, if not ask someone to help you.

Once the spring is out, we need to unlock the belt. This belt is holding the drum and front-seal. Once the belt is loosen, gently pull out the belt from the seal. Next, take the drum out -very careful- from the machine. Now deal with the seal cap. Use a rope to tie the seal-cap to make sure it does not stretching, we just want to make sure the rubber keep in the position. Next is put a proper cushion to hold the cap from not falling down.

Step Six - Bearing Removal

There were two drums. From rear shaft (where the pulley stood for), use the hammer and a chisel (dull) to knock the inner drum out. Knock it fairly on each side.

This stuff is not Japanese made, so I advice if you find a trouble in removing those bearing manually. Pay for someone who is good in dealing with this stuff.

My first machine was really damn hard, because of its corrosion. I forget the specification, but I knew that it was hold tight with three legs for 60 degrees on each side of the drum. I can't bet for a risk by damaging the bearing-case, not yet I fear it would be a leak-risk to the drum, if I hit it with more pressure. Those bearings still won't going out. Lately my friend used the eject machine to take it out, with proper lubricant and some heating.

Last Step - Installment
Put some rubber sealer to oil-seal when installment. Make sure you install those bearings fairly and properly to its case. If you are not sure what you're doing, you may ask the expert.

The most important is make sure no leak of water. Test with water around the seal to make sure the seal is doing its job. When it's done, install back the machine.

SOURCE: Hotpoint Aquarius WMA54 very noisy during spin

Hi, if your H/P is noisy on the spin cycle, just open the door and turn the drum a few times. If you feel some play, or kind of loud huming noise, then it is the bearings, very, very common on H/P WMA's.

Barry Coates

• 3463 Answers
• Posted on May 27, 2009

SOURCE: Noisy spin on hotpoint aquarius WF530 6kg washing machine. Suspect bearing how do I replace them.

If you spin the drum by hand, and it is niosy and rumbling then the main drum bearings have failed.
If under 5 years old, then you should be able to get it repaired under Hotpoint 5 year guarantee, You just pay for labour and call out, cheapest option, it is not really a D.I.Y job, as it is quite involved, and entails a lot of work.
Please rate my advice.
Thanks.