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If bolt does not thread into engine block or head What you will need: Penetrating oil (auto center---pepboys, advanced auto, parts plus ect) Screw gun example (home center) cordless drill corded screw gun something with a clutch 5/32 or a 1/4" self tapping hex head screw by 3/4" long a driver for #12 hex head(I can't remember if it's 3/16", or 1/4" or 1/4" or 5/16" 1/4"90 degress offset for screw gun(usally aroung $8.00 (home center) Channel locks or really goood pliers (home center)
This may work, and cheapest solution. Get some spray penetrating oil. Spray what's lest of bolt on both sides. Tap what is left of bolt, making sure you don't hit what's left of the threads, or causing it to peane over. repeat this a few times. After oil has penetrated, on sheared side start running the screw in This is where you use the offset for the screwgun and the channel locks to hold the offset in the right position.Once the screw seats it's self, with luck, it should act like it's driving the sheered bolt deeper. Once you see more of the end of bolt comming out, stop, use channel locks to finish removing.
If this fails or bolt is in head or block More penetrating oil 1/4" ezeout with right numbered drill bit 90 degrees drill chuck Tap handle (for ezeout) Center punch 1/8" drill bit
Use center punch to put a divit in center of broken bolt Use 1'8" bit to drill pilot hole, no mre than 3/8" deep( measure from tip of bit up to 3/8" put a peice of tape around bit) Use the numbered bit for eze out, drilling no deeper than 3/8" Use easy out with tap handle. Note! do not use "auto center's bolt extractors, they are garbage. Go to an industrial suppy or industrial hardware house
I assume that the head of the bolt is rounded off, so you can't get a hold of it to remove it. (Most people say "stripped" when they mean the threads of the bolt or the hole are destroyed.) First, confirm the direction you need to turn it, which differs if the blade is on the right or left. If you are looking at the head of the bolt, the teeth of the blade will be pointing in the direction that you need to turn the bolt to loosen it. I assume you have already tried vise-grips to no avail. The next easiest thing to try is a small rotary grinding tool (like a dremmel) - you can use that to grind two parallel flat surfaces on the bolt so that you have something to grip. If the head of the bolt is too thin for that to work, you are going to have to use a screw extractor which requires you to drill a hole in the head of the bolt. However, if this is a left-handed thread (which would be the case if the teeth of saw are pointing clockwise, you will need a left-handed screw extractor - which might be hard to find. Good luck.
If this pulley has a hex head bolt holding it on then it is probably a left hand thread. Try turning the bolt the opposite way if this applies.. Best of Luck.
I suggest you read your owners manual and get acquainted with your motorcycle. The engine oil drain plug & the transmission drain plug is something you should know. One is a 5/8 hex head vertical plug and the other is a horizontal plug.....The engine oil drain hex bolt is located on the right side of the motorcycle and is removed/installed horizontally. Transmission oil drain hex bolt is located on the left side of the motorcycle and is removed/installed vertically.
Are you talking about the bolts that actually hold the right and left case halves together or some other bolts? On a stock setup, there are six double ended threaded studs with nuts and two hex head bolts.
your strimmer head has rounded where the bolt is located.You will need a new head so you have to break the plasic to get at the bolt and fit a new head.
It's probably located under the splash guard and should have either an internal hex head, an external hex (like a bolt head), or both. You can also drain the radiator by pulling the lower radiator hose.
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