Jandy Ae3000t 131,000 Btu Heat Pump Logo

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Ihave a problem with a jandy 3000AETi 220volts 1 ph.have a braker 50 amp 10 wired the heat pump start to work , and inmediately break out the braker is out too thanks anticipate

The heat pump go on by 5 seconds the breaker in position off (50 amp) wire no 10 the heat pump run very little time and next the control is in off position

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 01, 2009

SOURCE: Can't shut down the main

The relay is probably bad. If you open up the main outdoor panel, you can watch the bottom of the relay for the pump, ususally on the upper left of the relay cluster (black). Watch for a small tab popping out when turning on/off. If you don't see it, the relay is bad. This assumes you hear a click when doing this.

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Anonymous

  • 125 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2009

SOURCE: Jandy Aqua link rs4 not shutting off filter pump

Trouble shooting guide

Anonymous

  • 1489 Answers
  • Posted on May 27, 2009

SOURCE: Jandy Aqualink RSO301 keeps blowing fuse

Great discovery! You're welcome.

Could you please take a few and rate my assistance.

thanks...

Charlie

joespools200

  • 246 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 13, 2009

SOURCE: We have an AquaLink RS4 All Button control in the

can't be made the only is to cancel the delay on the back dip #4 heater cool down turn off breaker when do this also change assign jva at system setup

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 09, 2009

SOURCE: I have Jandy RS4 system with 4-button poolside

Pull the cover off the control panel. You will probably find a button which would be accessible from outside the panel with a paper clip or pencil but is unlabeled. On the board itself by the button, in small letters it should say "reset". Push the button and see what happens.

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Goodman package unit heat strips will not turn on

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I have a Beachcomber Model 350 hot tub abd the GFCI is tripped and won't reset

You may have a bad heating element. But first make sure you have power to the gfci. (check the braker) You can test this by disconnecting the heater leads and see if it will reset. If it still trips try disconnecting your equipment one at a time, ie. blower, ozone, circ pump, booster pumps. If nothing solves the gfci issue you need to replace the gfci. All of this is assuming you have a blank gfci receptical monted to your spa pack.

If your talking about the 50 amp gfci at the braker box try pushing the braker all the way to the off position then back to the on possition. If it trips right away do the above.
Aug 06, 2013 • Pool & Spa
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How do I connect my Jandy AE-TI heat pump to my intermatic T104P3

1) Copy following link for wiring illustration ... assuming timer is supposed to control pool pump:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T104-to-contactor.jpg

2) T104P is 240Volt (208-277V) SPDT timer in P plastic outdoor enclosure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T104

3) Jandy AE-TI is 208/230V pool heater.
http://www.bestbuypoolsupply.com/media/aemanual.pdf

4) Page 13 of Jandy manual shows single-phase residential wiring diagram.

5) First of all, power to main contactor is not interruped by timer, since this powers 24Volt transformer that controls the chip board and general operation.

6) The timer is connected to 'Auto-heat contactor.'
The confusion is what Load connects to this contactor? The water pump? Load is shown on diagram as 'pump time clock.'
I assume the load is the PUMP??

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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On my Jandy AE-TI pool heat pump, it runs but does not heat the water. The contactor is burnt an wires connecting to it are frayed. What could have caused this and what would it cost to fix

Parts to fix are cheap compared to new heater, usually most problems are caused by loose connections, ie resistance equals heat. Repair what you see is damaged and make sure everything is absolute tight unless its control wiring. If you decide to fix it you can get all you parts at a good electrical supplier but you will need to know what voltage the contactor coil is, it should say 24, 120, 208 volt and the number on contacts, take one with you and show them what you need, wire size is important. It could have 12 ga. wire and have a 20 amp load, it should have 10 ga. which can carry 30 amps but handle 20 amps all day long as long as it tight. All the load carrying wires should be as tight as you can get them short of breaking the lugs on the teminals and contactor. I have repaired many boilers and heaters one even caught on fire. Have Fun
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A 60 Amp breaker (three phase) powers an 125 amp main lug 3 phase panel is that k or do i need a bigger braker. the wires are #8 THHN.

The breaker that feeds the panel and the wire are what determines the rating. The panel has to be at least as high as the breaker. It can be more, and no problem.The problem I see is that the wiring is undersized for the 60 amp breaker. You should have #6 wires or change the breaker to a 50 amp. If that is not enough for your load, you must change the wiring. It also depends on the type of wire. THHN will have the largest amperage, but if it is TW, it will be lower. Rule of thumb would be #10-30 amp, #8-40-50 amp, #6-50-60 amp, #4-70-90 amp and #2-95-135 amp. There are other factors, such as derating etc. but if you wanted to increase to 100 amp, I would run #2 thhn. Hope this helps.
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My well pump starts and stops

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I can't blame you for askig, but here's my response. 5 HP is 3750 running watts. or about 35 amps at 110 volts and it would take somewhere around 50 amps to start it provided the motor could even be wired for 110 which I don't believe it can and for that exact reason. I'm sorry, but it's just not practical.
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